Salmon three ways with horseradish cream, pickled radishes and crispy skin

Sometimes when I have a day or an evening when I am in the house on my own, I like to go to town on what I eat and make myself a ridiculously over the top dinner or lunch for one. I have no pressure to put a meal on the table and can take as long as I like, which often means eating at around 10pm after my overambitious cooking has ran away with the time. But sometimes it can be quick and easy, and I am left content and that the effort was all worth it, albeit dreading all of the clearing up... This lunch was one of those easier ones, mostly due to a bit of forward planning that made a lovely dish quite quick to assemble.

I’ve wanted to have a go at curing salmon in beetroot ever since watching Nathan Outlaw make it on Saturday Kitchen a few months back, and at the weekend I had the perfect excuse to give in a try. Katie and I had made sushi on the Saturday night, and I had bought a little extra salmon while I was there. I sometimes get a bit overexcited at fishmongers, and often walk away with a few extra bits that I couldn’t refuse. Come the Sunday I decided that curing would be the way to go, and although it might seem like a pain having to prepare it in advance, it’s hardly any work at all when you get down to it. I replaced the tarragon used by Nathan with garlic, bay and thyme, and after patiently waiting for my salmon to cure, the results were spectacular. After 20 or so hours in the curing mixture, the salmon is almost candied with a glowing red outer, turning into firm dark orange flesh when sliced. The taste is slightly salty, subtle salmon with the sweet hint of beetroot. 

This would have been a great little lunch on it’s own, or in a sandwich with horseradish and watercress as I made Katie the next day. But for this recipe I really wanted to make something special that championed salmon, and the pate and tartare were very quick ways of achieving this. 

The key to all of this as usual is sourcing the best and freshest produce that you can. This is especially the case with anything like quick cures and tartares where the fish isn’t fully cooked, and I wouldn’t dream of using something packaged for days in a supermarket for this. On this occasion I went to the excellent Jonathan Norris in Victoria Park village, and managed to buy a lovely piece of salmon for a very reasonable price. Supporting local independent food shops is important in keeping our high streets interesting, and means that we can have a much more varied choice of better quality, seasonal ingredients than what would be found in a supermarket. If these kind of shops are a little far from home or you don’t have the time, check out Hubbub, a shopping service that visits these amazing producers and delivers to your door.

Serves 2.

Ingredients:

2 nice pieces of salmon loin, ideally cut from the lean top of the fillet, around 2” thick

For the beetroot cure:

2 beetroots, peeled and roughly chopped

10 thyme sprigs

2 garlic cloves, skin removed

2 bay leaves

100g salt

50g sugar

For the smoked salmon pate:

100g smoked salmon

2 spring onions, white end only (save the green middle for the tartare)

1 lemon, juice only

2 tbsp double cream

Salt and pepper

For the salmon tartare:

1 tbsp fresh tarragon leaves, very finely chopped

1 tbsp green part of the spring onions

1/2 lemon, juice only

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

For the horseradish cream:

4 tbsp creme fraiche

2 tbsp finely grated horseradish

1 tsp english mustard

1 tsp white wine vinegar

1 lemon, juice

Salt and pepper

For the pickled radishes:

4 baby radishes, finely sliced

4 tbsp white wine vinegar (or to cover chopped radishes)

1 lemon, juice

Salt and pepper

To finish:

Peashoots or baby watercress

Warm crusty bread and butter

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Cure one of the salmon loins the day before you want to eat. To do this, put the beetroot, thyme, garlic, bay, salt and sugar into a food processor and blitz well until the mixture is very smooth and runny. Tip this into a small but deep tray and add the salmon, carefully making sure that it gets a good amount of the cure all over before covering the tray and putting in the fridge. Turn the salmon over after about 10 hours and put back in the fridge for another 10. After this time, the salmon will have firmed up a little and will have taken on the bright red beetroot colouring. Wash off the cure mixture and dry on kitchen paper. The cured salmon is now ready to use, and will last a good few days in the fridge at this point. 

To quickly pickle the radishes, slice them very thinly and put into a bowl. Cover with a little salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon and enough white wine vinegar to cover. Leave for at least half an hour for them to soften slightly and go almost translucent. 

For the horseradish cream, put the creme fraiche into a bowl and add the horseradish, mustard, white wine vinegar, lemon and a little seasoning. Mix well and taste, adding more horseradish, lemon or seasoning as needed. Set aside. It is fine to use as it is, but the flavours will get better the longer they can develop, ideally overnight. 

Heat the oven to 200ºC. Put a piece of greaseproof paper onto a baking sheet and place the reserved salmon skin on top. Drizzle over a little oil and seasoning, place another piece of paper on top, followed by another baking sheet. This will keep the skin flat as it cooks. Cook for 8-10 minutes, or until the skin is golden and crispy. Allow to cool and then cut into shards with a sharp knife.

To make the smoked salmon pate, put the spring onion, a little seasoning and the lemon juice into a food processor and blitz until very finely chopped. Add the smoked salmon and blitz again until it is a smooth pate texture. Add the double cream mix a final time until the mixture is a little lighter. Taste and season. 

Make the salmon tartare last of all. Cut the second piece of salmon into small even dice and put in a bowl. Add the finely chopped spring onion and tarragon and mix well. Squeeze over the juice of half a lemon and pour over the extra virgin olive oil. Mix again, taste and season if necessary.

To plate up, slice 3 thin slices of the cured salmon and arrange in the middle of the plate. Add a small pile of the tartare on one side and a quenelle of the pate on the other, poking a piece of crispy salmon skin into the centre. Spoon some horseradish cream around the salmon, add a few pickled radishes and a couple of peashoots (or watercress, if using). Serve with some warm bread and butter and a glass of dry white wine.

Pan roasted hake with anchovy chard, crushed tarragon potatoes and shrimp and caper butter

It’s funny how a quick chat with a food supplier can change your ideas completely. Twitter is especially good for this; there are loads of fishmongers, butchers and a huge amount of foodies writing about what they are eating and you cannot help but be inspired. If I ever have a lack of creativity, scouring my timeline soon gives me tons of things on my ‘to cook’ list. 

This recipe is a prime example. I really wanted to cook with fish, but I had no idea what type or what I was going to do with it. It had been ages since I cooked with monkfish, so initially I was going to try and get some of that and cook it with prosciutto and a basil sauce. Still undecided, I asked for recommendations on Twitter, and within minutes I had a response from a local fishmonger. He was raving about hake, and even posted photos of the catch that was being delivered the next morning. 

As soon as I saw that, my mind was made; I would go and buy some hake. It had been a while since I had bought any, and it really is a wonderful fish. I try and cook with cod as little as possible, and hake is a great alternative with it’s large, white, flakey texture. In fact, it shouldn’t be seen as an ‘alternative’ at all. Most of the hake caught in Britain goes straight to Spain, where it is really popular. It’s about time that it was used more, although I’m perfectly happy with the low price at the moment. Hake is a long fish, so for this dish try and get a thick fillet from the head end of the fish, or a piece from a large fish. Even better, buy a whole fish and have days of lovely meals. 

Most of the time I like to cook fish with really simple, clean flavours and sauces. You want to taste the fresh, subtle fish; it is after all the main event, and whatever you serve with it should compliment it. The brown butter sauce in this dish is a classic with fish. I have used shrimps and capers here, but you could add clams the make the meal look stunning, or simply lemon and parsley is amazing.

Chard is in season at the moment and is beautiful cooked this way, but if you can’t get any then spinach cooked in the same way is just as good.

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 large hake fillets, pin boned and skin left on

500g new potatoes

4 tbsp fresh tarragon leaves, roughly chopped

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large handful red chard, thick stalks removed

2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 lemon, juice only

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large knob butter

100g salted butter

1 garlic clove, very finely chopped

2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed

100g brown shrimps

1 lemon, juice only

1 handful parsley, finely chopped

Salt and pepper

First get the potatoes cooking by putting in a large saucepan of salted cold water and bring to the boil. Cook until tender, about 25 minutes, then drain and put back in the saucepan on the heat. Add the garlic, olive oil, tarragon and a good amount of seasoning, and crush the potatoes with a fork. I like quite a rough texture although it’s up to you how smooth you make them. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and add more oil or tarragon if needed. Keep warm while you prepare the rest of the dish.

While the potatoes are cooking, take your fish out of the fridge to get up to room temperature. Heat the oven to 180ºC. 

To cook the chard, heat the oil and butter in a large frying pan on a medium heat. Quickly fry the garlic and anchovy for a minute then add the chard. Keep turning with some tongs until it starts to wilt and soften, then add the lemon juice and seasoning. Taste and adjust then take off the heat. 

Season the fish well on both sides. Heat a non-stick frying pan to a medium heat and add a little olive oil. When hot, put the fillets skin-side down in the frying pan and cook for a few minutes, until the skin is golden and crisp. Still without turning, transfer the fish to an oven tray (or keep in the pan if suitable to go in the oven) and roast in the oven for 3-4 minutes, or until just cooked. 

While the fish is frying, make the butter sauce. Heat a small saucepan on a medium-high heat. When hot, add the butter and allow to froth and bubble. Wait until the butter has turned a brown colour and starts to smell nutty add the capers, garlic and shrimp. Cook for a minute, then add the lemon juice, parsley and seasoning. Taste and adjust. 

Heat up the chard and potatoes if necessary while the fish is cooking, then everything is ready to plate up. Put a nice pile of potatoes on the middle of the plate and top with some of the chard. Place the hake on top, and spoon a good amount of the butter sauce on top. Serve with a crisp white wine.