tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77267227912643218672024-03-29T02:07:59.884-07:00Sam Cooks FoodAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.comBlogger174125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-84947997078482739182017-03-26T12:04:00.003-07:002017-03-26T12:04:56.489-07:00Monkfish with monk's beard, wild garlic, barley and lemon<span style="font-size: small;">It's been all change recently, a few weeks running around here, there and everywhere. At the end of February, my wife and I spent a lovely couple of weeks visiting my sister and her partner in Sydney, Australia. As you might expect, it was largely filled with food and drink. The food system in Australia is fantastic, with lots of emphasis on local, seasonal produce. Even basic supermarkets put ours to shame; piled high with superb quality vegetables, mostly untrimmed and unpackaged. One morning we visited the vast fish market (or course), and had some memorable sushi for breakfast. It was really interesting noting the huge difference in fish varieties available in the Southern Hemisphere. I thought that I was an expert, but this was all new to me. The highlight of the trip for me was a few days spent in the Hunter Valley, a couple of hours north of the capital. I'm rather naive when it comes to wine, so it was brilliant to visit the numerous wineries and learn more about the Shiraz and Semillon that the area specialises in. All in 37 degree heat, as kangaroos weaved between the wines just feet away. Magical. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">In other news, I have just started a new job as Recipe Developer at Abel and Cole. I'm only a couple of weeks in and still a little green behind the gills, but I'm really enjoying everything so far and I look forward to the challenges ahead. I'm sad to be leaving all things fishy though, and I've had a wonderful three years working with astounding produce and wonderful people. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Now things are a little settled, it's high time that I kick started things on this blog. Surrounded by food every day, I've hardly been short of inspiration! Somehow spring has crept in and wild garlic season is now in full swing, and I also spied a lonely bunch of monk's beard in the corner of my local greengrocer. I quickly rustled up this dish on sunny afternoon, some simply dressed barley topped with the seasonal greens and a fried piece of local fish. Sometimes it's nice to spend the day cooking and constructing an intricate, complicated meal. But often a few ingredients treated in an unfussy manner is just the thing. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the monkfish: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 monkfish steaks, about 100-120g each. Membrane removed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp capers </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A pinch of chilli flakes <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the barley: </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 mug of pearl barley </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest and juice </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 large handfuls of monks beard, roots trimmed and washed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A handful of wild garlic leaves <br /><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill up the kettle and switch on. Pour the barley into a saucepan and add the crushed garlic clove, thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Cover with the boiling water by about 2cm. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover with a lid and cook for 20-25 minutes. When the grains have absorbed the water and are al dente, dress with a good glug of olive oil, the lemon zest and juice and a pinch of seasoning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While the barley is cooking, fill a separate saucepan with well salted boiling water. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Blanch the monk's beard for a minute, then quickly transfer to the cold water to stop the cooking. Once cool, drain well and set aside until later. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Pour 2 tbsp of olive oil into a small bowl and add the drained capers, dried chilli flakes and a little seasoning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Heat a non-stick frying pan until it is smoking hot. Pour in a good glug of olive oil. Season the monkfish steaks all over and lay them into the hot pan. Fry for 2 minutes, then turn the steaks over and add the butter. Cook for a further 2 minutes, basting the monkfish continuously with the hot butter. Transfer the monkfish to a plate to rest briefly, and reduce the heat of the pan to medium. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Toss the blanched monk's beard and wild garlic leaves into the pan and fry for 30 seconds, until warmed through. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, spoon a generous amount of the lemony barley onto each plate. Top with the monkfish steaks and the greens. Finish with a good spoonful of the caper and chilli dressing.</span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com62tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-57272774524813614692017-02-08T14:59:00.000-08:002017-02-08T14:59:24.383-08:00Pork chop with bagna cauda, radicchio and lentils<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Pork chops have been somewhat cast aside as an old fashioned ingredient. The nose to tail movement spearheaded by the likes of Fergus Henderson did great things to parts that would usually have headed straight to the abattoir refuse bin. Tails are now the new scratchings don't you know, and every half-confident cook can relate to lovingly shaving a pig's jowl with a newly bought Bic. But the humble pork chop is Plain Jane in comparison, lacking the pure macho gore factor, the sort of thing served at those outwardly loved yet ill frequented London institutions. But out of the blue I really fancied one. Not one of those flaccid vac packed supermarket jobbies, a proper one from a proper butcher. The sort of chop that has you questioning whether your appetite has betrayed your true eating ability. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To make Jane less plain, anchovies are often the answer. Loads of them, mashed up with a whole head of garlic and a whole lot of fat. A delicate thing this is not. Italians use this sauce to good effect with simple raw or lightly cooked vegetables, but it also melts joyously into slices of lean pork. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Keeping things seasonal I opted for an old friend; the alert form of a red and white radicchio. Blackened slightly in the chop pan, the slight bitterness offsets the fatty others on the plate. Parsley is so often the bridesmaid, lost in a sauce or a retro garnish, and here fills a more substantial role. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br />Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 large pork chops <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the bagna cauda: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1/2 bottle of dry white wine </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">1 head of garlic, peeled </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">10 anchovies </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">5 sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">150g butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">75ml olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the lentils: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 mug of firm green lentils </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small shallot </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the radicchio: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small head of radicchio, cut into quarter wedges <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp capers </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bunch of parsley </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Start by cooking the lentils. Pour the lentils into a saucepan and cover with water by 1cm. Halve the shallot and crush the garlic clove and add to the pan along with the bay leaf. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25-30 minutes, adding a splash more water if necessary. Drain the cooked lentils, and dress with a glug of olive oil and a generous pinch of seasoning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the bagna cauda, pour the wine into a saucepan and add the garlic and picked thyme leaves. Bring to a simmer and reduce gently until only a few tablespoons of liquid remain. Add the anchovies at this point and mash together well. Whisk in the butter, until everything is emulsified together. Remove from the heat and pour in the olive oil, whisking continuously. Taste and season if necessary, then set aside in a warm place. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large, heavy saucepan to a high heat. Slash through the fat of each chop every centimetre or so. Rub all over with olive oil and season well. When the pan is hot, hold the chops fat-side down for a minute, until it starts to blister and crisp. Turn the chops and continue to fry for 3-4 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness and how you like it cooked. Transfer to a plate and allow to rest for 6-8 minutes, then cut into thick slices. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c9Uej9S6fGM/WJuiOQs4yfI/AAAAAAAACGE/_PXqQM7qbKUjPQuGAjwLIg3QR_nbF4lzACEw/s1600/IMG_2293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c9Uej9S6fGM/WJuiOQs4yfI/AAAAAAAACGE/_PXqQM7qbKUjPQuGAjwLIg3QR_nbF4lzACEw/s400/IMG_2293.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Add the wedges of radicchio to the still hot chop pan. Cook for a couple of minutes on all sides, until beginning to char. Transfer to a board and separate the leaves. Season with salt and pepper, and squeeze over a little lemon juice. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Trim and discard any tough stalks from the parsley. Dress with some of the remaining lemon juice. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, scatter some of the lentils onto each plate. Arrange slices of the pork on top, along with some of the dressed parsley and the cooked radicchio. Finish with a generous amount of the bagna cauda and a few capers.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-89932422588842807542017-01-31T15:05:00.000-08:002017-01-31T15:05:29.866-08:00Smoked mussels with king cabbage, purple potatoes, sea rosemary and blood orange<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">One the most important lessons that I have learned in food is to cook seasonally. It is so effortlessly easy to plan new dishes by simply picking and choosing ingredients that grow together and are harvested at the same time. I used to be a slave to supermarket convenience, where shelves are packed with seemingly evergreen produce, and believed that seasonality was a pompous and irrelevant trend. But it’s all in the taste; a locally-grown asparagus spear in May is massively superior to a bendy Peruvian counterpart in the autumn. Squashy summer tomatoes are packed with sweetness, having not travelled under the duress of taste-zapping refrigeration. Shellfish are much fitter and healthier when the seas are cold. Even better is that most seasonal ingredients combine beautifully, with dishes becoming mere simple assemblies on a plate, each ingredient singing in harmony. It’s dead easy to work out what’s in season right now, ask your local greengrocer, fishmonger or butcher, or there’s a ton of information online. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m7CE5ohpFwM/WJEXgLbyZ_I/AAAAAAAACFk/Fm0RtT_G7LIBq8P2qD6dyOfqLuu2r5RyACEw/s1600/IMG_2324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m7CE5ohpFwM/WJEXgLbyZ_I/AAAAAAAACFk/Fm0RtT_G7LIBq8P2qD6dyOfqLuu2r5RyACEw/s400/IMG_2324.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">This dish is wintry produce at its best. January king cabbages always bring a smile to my face with their sprawling, messy leaves; like a teenager’s fringe splattered with greens, purples and blues. This year’s blood oranges have just arrived too, along with beautiful sweet Sicilian lemons. A plate of shredded cabbage dressed with these, a pinch of salt and some good oil would be enough, but I decided to go a step further with the inclusion of mussels. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Mussels are still cheap as chips, and one of the best ways of feeding a crowd on a budget. Cooked simply and classically with white wine and garlic and served with chunks of French stick, I’d defy anyone not to be happy. A touch of smoke lends itself well to their strong molluscy flavour, so I decided that a bit of DIY smoking was in order. I can definitely recommend having a go yourself, it’s easy to set up and great fun experimenting with different ingredients. So far I’ve used it with meat, fish and cheeses, but I’d like to expand to vegetables too. I reckon broccoli, cauliflower and tomatoes would all work well. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Sea rosemary was a bit of an impulse purchase after I spied a punnet sitting tucked away on a greengrocer’s shelf. Having never cooked with it before I was keen to have a try and give it a go. Tasting a little like samphire, its acts as a seasoning for the potatoes, giving the dish much more of a seaside feel. Never fear if you can’t find it, parsley, tarragon, chervil or samphire will all work a treat. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the smoked mussels: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 handfuls of large, live mussels, debearded </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large handful of hay or straw </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The peeled zest of 1 blood orange <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the cabbage: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large wedge of January King or Savoy cabbage, cut into rough ribbons <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the purple potatoes: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large handful of small purple or violette potatoes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of sea rosemary, leaves picked <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the dressing: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 blood oranges </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large unwaxed lemon </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small bulb of fennel, finely sliced with a vegetable peeler </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The fronds from the fennel <br /><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Wash the potatoes and pop them into a saucepan with a good pinch of salt. Cover with water and bring to the boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes, until cooked through. Allow to cool slightly, then peel away the skins with the help of a sharp knife. Transfer the peeled potatoes to a bowl and add the sea rosemary leaves.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4seaFZffR0E/WJEX2t3e6YI/AAAAAAAACFs/KRQPYE9nlwoW3fgPZ5xasFZToknVSglFgCEw/s1600/IMG_2312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4seaFZffR0E/WJEX2t3e6YI/AAAAAAAACFs/KRQPYE9nlwoW3fgPZ5xasFZToknVSglFgCEw/s400/IMG_2312.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Make the blood orange dressing by squeezing the citrus juice into a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt, then whisk in the olive oil. Pour 3-4 tablespoons of the dressing over the warm, peeled potatoes and stir to coat. Put the rest aside for use later. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large saucepan up to a high heat. Tip in the mussels and a splash of water and cover with a lid. Cook for 2-3 minutes, until all of the mussels have opened. Transfer to a bowl and pick the meat out of the majority, leaving a few in their shells. Pour the liquor from the mussels back into a saucepan. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Top up the mussel cooking liquor with about a cup of water and bring back to the boil. Blanch the king cabbage for 1-2 minutes, until al dente. Drain and transfer to a bowl, then toss with a tablespoon of the blood orange dressing. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Line a large saucepan with foil, and arrange the hay and peel to one side. Tear off a smaller piece of foil, and use this to hold the mussel meat so that it forms one layer. Place this sheet to the vacant side of the pan (it’s ok if it overlaps the hay a little). Using a match or blowtorch in a well-ventilated area, set fire to the straw and immediately cover with a lid. Allow to smoke for 5 minutes. Very carefully remove the smoked mussels, making sure that the hay is properly extinguished. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, arrange the mussels, potatoes and cabbage leaves onto a plate, making sure to include the sea rosemary. Top with the fennel shavings and fronds. Finish with an extra splash of the dressing and serve. </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-2247934971682525242017-01-24T13:47:00.000-08:002017-01-24T13:47:37.062-08:00Tortellini in brodo with cime di rapa<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Last week dicey farming conditions created a “courgette crisis”, sparking newspaper headlines and shopper fury at empty supermarket shelves. Never has the humble courgette been so in demand, and the people of twitter rejoiced when new stocks finally arrived. For me this highlighted the gloomy state of eating in this country, and the frankly bonkers casual reliance on supplies of a summer vegetable in the middle of January. Despite the bleak weather, the winter months throw up some amazing produce, bang in season right now and much more perky than a sad box of zucchini that’s had to be flown in from who knows where. Surely people can have a little imagination and use what’s being harvested locally right now, which would surely be better for the food and farming system as a whole? January is clearly proving to be a ranty month for this blog, what with the torrent in my last post. I wonder what’s going to be on the receiving end of my food wrath next week. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Back to the recipe, something inspired by some decent food telly of late. I’ve been really enjoying the latest series of Rick Stein’s Long Weekends, providing the perfect blend of holiday escapism and his reassuring kind of food commentary that hasn’t changed in decades. You know what you’re getting with half an hour with Rick. It’s certainly nothing new, with a focus on fish and markets, yearnings for Padstow and countless swimming clips, but sometimes it’s nice to switch off rather than another programme on this year’s food fad, or another revelation that my favourite food is going to be the end of me. In one episode, Rick was in Italy wolfing down tortellini handmade effortlessly by a brilliant bunch of ancient women, and I had to have a go at making some myself. Served swimming in broth, it looked the perfect thing to combat the icy weather of late. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I was pleased to see some beautiful cime di rapa when picking up ingredients from my excellent local greengrocers in North London. These greens are often referred to as ‘turnip tops’, and are similar to very fine broccoli in taste and texture. Although it can be quite hard to track down outside of the capital, kale, chard or sprouting broccoli can be used perfectly as a substitute and should be widely available right now. Beaten with ricotta, parmesan and prosciutto, it makes a lovely rich filling for dinky little pasta dumplings. The broth made from chicken bones and shallots is simple and warming, the type that often provides just what’s needed when feeling the brunt of these cold months. Adding the parmesan rind is a great tip that I picked up a few years back, and it’s worth freezing them for such an occasion. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pasta: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g ‘00’ grade pasta flour, plus a little extra for dusting </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 medium eggs, plus 1 extra for brushing </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A pinch of fine salt </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the filling: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large bunch of cime di rapa </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">100g ricotta cheese </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">8 slices of prosciutto, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small garlic clove, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">20g parmesan, grated <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the brodo: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">600-800g chicken bones or wings, cut into small chunks </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 shallots, halved lengthways with the skin left on </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 garlic cloves, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 bay leaves </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The rind from a piece of parmesan (optional) <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Grated parmesan </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Extra virgin olive oil </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A handful of cime di rape <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Start by making the brodo. Heat a glug of olive oil in a large saucepan until hot. Season the pieces of the chicken carcass and brown well on all sides, in batches if necessary. Remove to a side plate, then add the shallots cut-side down. Fry for a minute or two, until well caramelised. Return the chicken to the pan along with the garlic and herbs and cook for a further minute. Add the wine and reduce by half, then cover with 2 litres of water. Drop in the parmesan rind and a pinch of seasoning. Cover with a lid and gently simmer for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. When the broth is cooked, strain through a sieve into another large saucepan, and discard the now spent bones and vegetables. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To make the pasta dough, tip the flour into a large bowl and combine with the salt. Make a well in the middle, then crack in the eggs and pour in the olive oil. Use a fork to whisk the eggs and oil, gradually incorporating the flour until a dough is formed. Transfer to a clean surface and knead well for 8-10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic in texture. Wrap with cling film and pop in the fridge to rest for at least 30 minutes. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Whilst the pasta is resting, make the filling. Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Sprinkle in a generous pinch of salt. Fill a large bowl with ice-cold water. When the water is boiling add all of the cime di rapa to the pan and simmer for 2-3 minutes, until the stalks are just tender. Use tongs to transfer the cooked greens to the cold water to halt the cooking process, then drain. Separate out roughly a handful to use as a garnish later and set aside. Squeeze as much of the water from the remaining leaves and stalks as possible, then transfer to a food processor. Add the garlic, parmesan, prosciutto and some seasoning and blend well, until everything is finely chopped. Spoon in the ricotta and pulse a couple more times to combine. Scrape the mixture into a bowl. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bbjktfmpPvY/WIfK7Kkd2vI/AAAAAAAACFQ/nKuul65y_4IDiWGPrIZ2JK1qCXURbf0FwCEw/s1600/IMG_2266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bbjktfmpPvY/WIfK7Kkd2vI/AAAAAAAACFQ/nKuul65y_4IDiWGPrIZ2JK1qCXURbf0FwCEw/s400/IMG_2266.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use a pasta machine to roll out the rested dough until it reaches the thinnest setting, using the spare flour to dust if necessary. Lay the finished sheet across the worktop. Break the remaining egg into a bowl and whisk, then use a pastry brush to lightly cover the surface of the pasta. Dot small half-teaspoons of the filling at intervals along the sheet, allowing 6-8 per portion, then cut around with a small pastry cutter. Fold the pasta around the filling to form a half moon, sealing around the filling using your finger and thumb. Bend the two pointed corners back around the filling and press together to form a tortellini. Transfer to a well-floured plate and repeat with the rest. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring the strained brodo to the boil. Arrange the spare whole cime di rapa into the bottoms of each bowl. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Shake any excess flour from the tortellini, then lower into the brodo. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to the bowls. Top up with the broth, and drizzle over a little olive oil. Finish with a generous grating of parmesan and serve. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-36567371626565565202017-01-18T13:52:00.000-08:002017-01-18T13:52:18.800-08:00Crab with marinated raw sprouts, sprout flowers and parsley<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Where has all of the time gone? Work was a hectic flurry of oysters, lobsters and smoked salmon before Christmas, then a well-earned break spent catching up with family and attending a lovely wedding up north. Then there has been trying to get to grips with the exciting yet mega stressful house build project that Katie and I are currently undertaking, all punctuated by an unpleasant and hugely boring bout of cold and flu, which I’ve been trying to shake off for what feels like forever. All of those days branded ‘update blog’ on my to-do list seemed to nestle into distractions, and somehow it’s now the middle of January. How!? Anyway, finally I have managed to turn back to these pages and write another recipe. I’m really determined to not let things slip too much with this blog, and I’m really looking forward to another year of cookery exploration.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZOY25IyZBA/WH_i8ozpXUI/AAAAAAAACEw/yBQzbaODoBsU-vUxFdKD15mKaKvxDDPgACEw/s1600/IMG_2248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZOY25IyZBA/WH_i8ozpXUI/AAAAAAAACEw/yBQzbaODoBsU-vUxFdKD15mKaKvxDDPgACEw/s400/IMG_2248.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Now that Christmas is over, everyone seems to have forgotten about Brussels sprouts. Some with true relief, and others because the only place for a sprout is beside a golden, shimmering and utterly bone dry turkey. Well not me. I’m happy they still reside in constant stock at my local greengrocers. And there’s so much more to sprouts than Christmas lunch, they work a treat in this recipe. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I really hate eating salads in January. Not because I hate salads, but because it makes me feel like I’m conceding to the masses of hysterical New Year detox bullshit that’s everywhere right now. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to eat healthily, and there’s nothing wrong with dieting sensibly, but recently it all seems to have gone way out of control. Guilt has always been a massive force in food and marketing, but now you’re frowned upon unless your chocolate cake is made from some sort of weird cashew and date concoction, And don’t even think about eating it if it contains the merest mention of white flour. Ugh. It’s all so draining. Although I’ve always been happy with a balanced diet, which could involve a broth one evening and a cheese-filled hamburger the next, I worry about the confusing, dangerous signals that all of this gives to less confident eaters. It’s time that food and food writing was about celebrating ingredients again, not about banishing them from our diets. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">So yes, a salad. But the focus of this salad is some very special crabmeat. There are few things in cooking greater than boiling up a whole crab, before meticulously picking every last scrap of meat from the still warm shell, ideally surrounded by piles of bread and mayonnaise. But I appreciate that some don’t have the time and space, and that it might not be appropriate for the moderately squeamish. Failing that, there are some excellent hand-picked, unpasteurised crab products available, that allow this little plateful to be prepared in a matter of moments. The bright, fresh shellfish contrasts with the bitter sprouts wonderfully, with dinky capers and fiery chilli flakes adding a welcome kick along the way. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the white crabmeat: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">250g unpasteurised white crabmeat </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A squeeze of lemon juice <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the brown crabmeat: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">100g brown crabmeat </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a teaspoon of Dijon mustard </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest and juice </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sprout salad: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of Brussels sprouts, trimmed and finely sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of sprout flowers, leaves peeled 1 large bunch of parsley </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a small clove of garlic </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp capers </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 pinch of dried chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest and juice </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Tip the brown crabmeat into a food processor and add the mustard, lemon zest and a good pinch of seasoning. Blitz until well combined. With the engine still running, slowly pour in the olive oil, until the mixture is light and emulsified. Stir in the lemon juice and taste for seasoning. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pJxeGZPGUD0/WH_jH8bDK2I/AAAAAAAACE0/HgffG6TwmVkS7ZdrtP-0JirgUcWyNs_MQCEw/s1600/IMG_2236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pJxeGZPGUD0/WH_jH8bDK2I/AAAAAAAACE0/HgffG6TwmVkS7ZdrtP-0JirgUcWyNs_MQCEw/s400/IMG_2236.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Make the dressing for the greens by combining the lemon zest and juice, capers, grated garlic, dried chilli flakes and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the olive oil. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Put the sliced sprouts, sprout flower leaves and roughly torn parsley into a large bowl and toss evenly with the dressing. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Squeeze the lemon juice over the white crabmeat and taste. Add salt and pepper if necessary. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Spoon a good dollop of the brown crabmeat onto each plate and arrange a pile of the white meat next to it. Scatter some of the dressed salad to the side and serve.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-73121993395909922042016-11-21T12:25:00.000-08:002016-11-21T12:25:09.742-08:00Burrata with crushed blackberries, castelfranco, fennel seeds and thyme<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Late November and December sees the first of the bitter leaves emerge, with all kinds of multi-coloured radicchio, kale, chard and chicory now firmly on the menu. For me, learning to love these winter vegetables has been a struggle I’ve only recently overcome. Despite appearing beautifully sculpted and painfully photogenic, this produce requires a bit of work and balance to tease out the true delights. Eaten in a raw, undressed form they can be a trifle unpleasant. In the past I would often rustle up a chicory-heavy salad with very little else, and then sit dumbstruck as to why others considered it edible. But experience eventually taught me that tempering is the name of the game. Toss kale in an anchovy and garlic heavy Caesar dressing and it is suddenly no longer the yellowing bag of greens waiting patiently at the back of the fridge. Grill half a radicchio until singed and crispy and a hidden sweetness is released. Bake chard piled high with parmesan and be prepared to fight for the last spoonful. It felt like a new world had been opened, and now I actively look forward to the season coming around. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">This week I’ve been rather short of time during my days off, and with daylight hours at an absolute premium at this time of year it’s been a challenge to get anything on film. In the past I have been devastated when hours of cooking time have gone to waste due to a dimly lit room and unusable photography. These days I plan my testing days more effectively, and this recipe was more of an assembly of ingredients rather than a labour at the stove. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The winter leaf of choice for this dish is castelfranco, a beautifully marked and delicate type of radicchio. Sitting toward the lower end of the face-squirmingly bitter scale, left raw it provided the perfect balance with the rich, creamy burrata and the sweetness of the blackberries. In East London I’m luckily surrounded by a number of brilliant greengrocers, but I realise that castelfranco may be an elusive beast to get hold of. In which case, regular purple radicchio, rocket or even spinach would work as a handy substitute. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 balls of burrata </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few large leaves of castelfranco radicchio, washed and roughly torn </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 punnet of blackberries </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp of fennel seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3-4 sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves picked </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest only <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Bring a frying pan to a medium-high heat. When hot, scatter in the fennel seeds and toast for a minute or two, then pour into a bowl. Drizzle in 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil along with a good pinch of salt and pepper, the lemon zest, fresh thyme leaves and the blackberries. Use a spoon or fork to lightly crush the blackberries and toss everything together. Set aside for 15 minutes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Break the burrata into rough pieces and arrange onto each plate with the torn castelfranco leaves. Spoon over the blackberries and flavoured oil, making sure all of the cheese and leaves receive a bit of dressing. <br /></span> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-5122884576302916982016-11-16T09:42:00.001-08:002016-11-16T09:42:39.592-08:00Spaghetti with black truffle, egg and parmesan<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Following on from the last recipe on this blog, I still had a good amount of black truffle in my possession and I was determined to turn it into another tasty dish. Although I have previously preserved excess truffle in butter to stretch it out for a week or so, this time I wanted to strike while the iron was hot, and no sooner had I finished scoffing my raw beef snacks I was back in the kitchen with the stove on. For this dish I wanted to keep things simple and very plain, maximising the pungent flavour of the knobbly tuber. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJnNuq9aFBM/WCyaPabimKI/AAAAAAAACEA/fnOijyCdzWAWkDidS_5_p5c0BNeriXRDwCEw/s1600/IMG_2164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJnNuq9aFBM/WCyaPabimKI/AAAAAAAACEA/fnOijyCdzWAWkDidS_5_p5c0BNeriXRDwCEw/s400/IMG_2164.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Truffles and eggs have long been bedfellows, and it’s amazing that if you keep eggs and truffles close together, the flavour will seep through the shells. After an overnight stay in each other’s company, the eggs had a definite truffley whiff and were ready to be beaten into a pasta dough, along with forming the base of the simple sauce. Carbonara and other rich, creamy pasta sauces have been making a fashionable comeback of late, and it doesn’t seem like you can switch on social media without spying another take on cacio e pepe. The role of eggs in this recipe is further stripped back, acting as a rich binder to transform the parmesan and truffle into a thick and glossy sauce. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Like most simple Italian recipes, success lies in careful execution. I cringe when I remember my earlier attempts at carbonara, heating the sauce together in a red hot pan that instantly turned the smooth eggs into a grainy, somewhat scrambled affair. I also knew nothing of using the very handy glutenous pasta water, which tempers the eggs and helps a great deal to thicken everything up. Constant movement of the pasta is the key; it will stop the eggs from overcooking whilst emulsifying the sauce. It may take a practice or two, but it’s a technique well worth mastering that will enable a bowlful of comforting pasta to be made in minutes. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the fresh spaghetti: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g ‘00’ grade strong pasta flour, plus a little extra for rolling </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 medium eggs </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Extra virgin olive oil </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Salt <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sauce: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 medium eggs plus one yolk </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A small handful of parmesan, finely grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1/3 of a black truffle, finely grated <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Thin slices of black truffle </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Extra gratings of parmesan </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">First make the pasta. Pour the flour into a large bowl and combine with a very generous pinch of salt. Use a wooden spoon to make a well in the middle, and crack in the eggs, along with about a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Use a fork to beat the eggs and oil, slowly incorporating the surrounding flour until a dough starts to form. Transfer the dough to a flat surface and knead really well, for 5-10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic in texture. Wrap with cling film and put in the fridge to rest for an hour. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lfcExrWpifQ/WCyaDT8wH1I/AAAAAAAACD8/qDrdecX1MtI4iuOV1rLLfWrdANmshb4owCEw/s1600/IMG_2139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lfcExrWpifQ/WCyaDT8wH1I/AAAAAAAACD8/qDrdecX1MtI4iuOV1rLLfWrdANmshb4owCEw/s400/IMG_2139.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Remove the rested dough from the fridge, and use a pasta machine to roll thinly (to the second thinnest setting using an Imperia machine), dusting each side with a little flour every few rolls. Use a spaghetti cutter attachment to create spaghetti. Cover the fresh pasta with a tea towel while you prepare the rest of the dish. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a large saucepan with water and add a generous amount of salt. Bring to the boil. Set a large frying pan over a gentle heat. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Break the eggs for the sauce into a bowl and whisk well. Stir through the grated truffle, parmesan and a pinch of seasoning. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Drop the fresh spaghetti into the boiling water and cook for 1-2 minutes. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use tongs to transfer the cooked spaghetti to the frying pan, adding a good ladle of the cooking water. Pour over the egg mixture and toss with the pasta really well. Cook for a minute or so over the low heat, stirring/tossing the pan continuously until the sauce thickens and coats the pasta. Taste and season if necessary. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, pile the spaghetti onto each plate and top with extra shavings of truffle and grated parmesan. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-48059805889651188742016-11-15T13:50:00.000-08:002016-11-15T13:50:52.325-08:00Raw beef with girolles, chestnuts, parmesan and Wiltshire truffle<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Snacks are always so overlooked, and I’m as guilty as anyone. I’ll happily spend hours in the kitchen preparing a hearty breakfast or intricate dinner, but when feeling a bit peckish I’m always so tempted to just crack open a bag of crisps or spread piles of salted butter onto hot toast. Although this sort of absent eating does its job and at least momentarily fills a hole, with a tiny bit more thought snacking can become that bit more satisfying. Be it stirring up a rich and tangy rarebit sauce, slicing ripe tomatoes to accompany slippery anchovies or simply toasting some almonds in a pan before coating in a slick of olive oil, salt and chilli flakes. Surely better than pickled onion monster munch! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MbM0P9tLojE/WCuC0mb3WaI/AAAAAAAACDo/r6Q15oOM7U8g20m-J-ldYgjzk3shKBrOACEw/s1600/IMG_2156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MbM0P9tLojE/WCuC0mb3WaI/AAAAAAAACDo/r6Q15oOM7U8g20m-J-ldYgjzk3shKBrOACEw/s400/IMG_2156.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A day off last week saw me travelling by train across London to the ever excellent Andreas greengrocers on Chelsea Green. Although somewhat of a mission from deepest, darkest Hackney, I always enjoy seeing different parts of the capital on a bright and crisp morning. And all well worth it for the wonderful selection of seasonal produce, including many interesting and hard to get ingredients. Beautiful fresh porcini mushrooms, purple Italian treviso and heavily armoured artichokes gleamed in the light. But the real star of the show lurked in a small jar to one corner; knobbly black Wiltshire truffles. Although at that point I didn’t have a specific recipe in my head, I just had to take one to play about with upon my return home. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to eat a really delicious steak tartare whilst lunching at Phil Howard’s new restaurant, Elystan Street, and I have been craving it ever since. I thought that something similar would work brilliantly with my newfound truffle, so after a quick visit to my local butcher, I soon had a well-marbled slice of chateaubriand in my possession. Raw beef, particularly lean cuts like the fillet, can be rather bland, and need a bit of careful help to shine through. Salt is obviously most important here, and hard cheese such as parmesan is commonly used to add richness. But a little seasonal twist in the form of finely sliced girolles and sweet chestnuts worked a treat here. The key is to make sure everything is at room temperature, and to taste repeatedly and adjust the flavourings until just balanced. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the beef: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g good quality dry-aged beef fillet, trimmed of outer sinew </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small handful of girolle mushrooms </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">8 cooked chestnuts </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp finely grated parmesan </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small Wiltshire black truffle <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sourdough: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 thin slices of white sourdough bread <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">More gratings of black truffle </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Chop the chestnuts roughly. Pour a glug of olive oil into a frying pan and bring to a medium-high heat. When hot, add the chestnuts along with the mushrooms and a good pinch of seasoning. Fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently, until everything is tender and slightly caramelised. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then chop very finely and transfer to a bowl. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CIODL-t2Ymo/WCuCuagbCpI/AAAAAAAACDk/sxUO4BtWamAHl97MWHiQXZ7zf0Fi1KjLQCEw/s1600/IMG_2142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CIODL-t2Ymo/WCuCuagbCpI/AAAAAAAACDk/sxUO4BtWamAHl97MWHiQXZ7zf0Fi1KjLQCEw/s400/IMG_2142.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat the grill to high. Cut the crusts from the sourdough and discard. Using a pasta machine or rolling pin, gently roll the bread until very thin. Place onto an oven tray and drizzle with a little olive oil and a pinch of salt. Set under the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until lightly golden and crispy. Remove and allow to cool, then break each into three equal pieces. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Chop the beef to a coarse mince texture using a very sharp knife and slide into a bowl. Combine with most of the cooled mushrooms and chestnuts and grate in the parmesan and about 2/3rds of the truffle. Season well and pour in about a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Mix together with a spoon, adding more of any of the flavourings to achieve a balanced flavour. The delicate flavour and texture of the beef should still be the focus. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, spoon generous amounts of the beef mixture onto the pieces of sourdough and arrange three on each plate. Top with lots more grated black truffle and a few drops of extra virgin olive oil. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-51241471395651805372016-11-07T15:02:00.000-08:002016-11-07T15:02:31.044-08:00Cured red mullet with marinated pumpkin, crème fraiche and mint<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">As with every October and November, gourds slowly begin to invade every meal. At the weekend there was roast chicken with crispy potatoes and a few slices of orange butternut sitting gingerly on the side. Then there was the post-bonfire night pumpkin soup, the roasted squash, steak and feta salad and there are still bulbous orange orbs sat atop most of the kitchen surfaces. If I’m really lucky, Katie will hopefully make her extra special pumpkin pies around Thanksgiving time. Don’t get me wrong, I really like it all, but sometimes you can definitely have too much of a good thing. So it was really good to recently stumble across a new (to me) preparation technique, something much more vibrant and fresher than the standard roasting, mashing or gratinating. The Duck Soup cookbook is definitely one of my favourite sources of cooking inspiration of late, and I was intrigued to see them treating butternut squash much like a summer courgette; peeling it thinly and tossing it raw into a salad. I’ve always been nervous about the taste of uncooked ‘green’ gourds, but after marinating briefly with a few trusty flavourings, I was dead happy with the results. The thin ribbons still retain a slight bite, but are reduced to a beautiful delicateness which marries perfectly with the other components on the dish. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JtbjICOo2dQ/WCEHOMchwtI/AAAAAAAACDM/-NfrI3huZMQRrvl3bt3rReXL9In_nyKKQCEw/s1600/IMG_2136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JtbjICOo2dQ/WCEHOMchwtI/AAAAAAAACDM/-NfrI3huZMQRrvl3bt3rReXL9In_nyKKQCEw/s400/IMG_2136.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The concept of this recipe began way before the detail, to the point where I still didn’t know what fish to use on the day that I was due to start cooking. Luckily, with a large slab of glistening fish at my disposal, I had plenty of options to pick from. The old curing or raw favourites were all there; bright pink tuna, beautifully fatty salmon and wild seabass like cricket bats. But keeping with the autumnal spirit, it seemed more appropriate to take advantage of the tide of wonderful red mullet that have come into season lately. Although not traditionally served in an uncooked state, they carry a lovely sweet flavour and slightly oily texture which I thought would work well. They only require a swift dip into the salty cure, just enough to add a touch of firmness, before they are all set for the plate. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When serving cured fish, subtlety is king, and care must be taken not to interrupt the flavour of the main event. Although I have used garlic and dried chilli, only a slight touch is needed. The soured crème fraiche and picked mint leaves tie everything together, adding a final refreshing hit. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the red mullet: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 red mullet, about 300g each, scaled, filleted and pin boned </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g sugar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">250g salt <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the marinated pumpkin: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 1” wedges of pumpkin or squash, such as butternut, Italian stripe or delicate </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest finely grated and half of the juice </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1/3 clove of garlic, finely grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A small pinch of dried chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the crème fraiche: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp crème fraiche </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A squeeze of lemon juice <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few fresh mint leaves <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Pour the salt and sugar into a bowl and mix together. Spread a quarter of the mixture evenly onto the bottom of a dish that is large enough to hold the mullet fillets in one layer. Place the fillets on top of the salt and sugar, then fully cover with the rest of the mixture. Use cling film to seal the dish, then refrigerate and allow to cure for about an hour. Once the fillets are cured, remove them from the dish and rinse clean, then pat dry with kitchen paper. Set aside. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-969fDP4G9RQ/WCEHYF_mQpI/AAAAAAAACDQ/anQG8gamDB8k66FU-QK0bFlzhj5l5aFrQCEw/s1600/IMG_2124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-969fDP4G9RQ/WCEHYF_mQpI/AAAAAAAACDQ/anQG8gamDB8k66FU-QK0bFlzhj5l5aFrQCEw/s400/IMG_2124.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use a vegetable peeler to strip the pumpkin flesh into thin, long ribbons and place in a bowl. Squeeze over the lemon juice along with the zest, chilli flakes, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and a good pinch of seasoning. Combine well until each strand is well coated, then set aside to marinate for about an hour. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Spoon the crème fraiche into a bowl and season well. Squeeze in a small amount of lemon juice, about a teaspoon, then mix together with a spoon. Transfer into a plastic bottle. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cE7qobMfr1Q/WCEHn7GrWUI/AAAAAAAACDU/hGW25ySbONYwI0oTaCffHQ1syLkWwFuaQCEw/s1600/IMG_2120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cE7qobMfr1Q/WCEHn7GrWUI/AAAAAAAACDU/hGW25ySbONYwI0oTaCffHQ1syLkWwFuaQCEw/s400/IMG_2120.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Carefully skin the red mullet with a sharp filleting knife. Slice each fillet into three or four pieces. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, arrange the cured chunks of fish onto each plate, and generously squeeze on a few blobs of lemony crème fraiche. Top with strands of the marinated pumpkin and some fresh mint leaves. Spoon a little of the marinade over the top and serve. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-52484555606004852952016-10-18T00:59:00.000-07:002016-10-18T00:59:07.144-07:00Skye langoustines with violet artichokes, wild mushrooms and smoked garlic<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">For many, buying a blowtorch to use in a domestic kitchen might seem like a gimmicky item to show off, or something destined to gather dust in the back of a shelf after many months of no use. I certainly don’t drag it out for most things that I cook, especially not quick, simple midweek meals. Yet I find it so genuinely useful in many circumstances, able to create a different element of flavour that is difficult to achieve with any other appliance. For a long time I have found myself semi-obsessed with charred or borderline burnt food; not great when totally dominating dishes, but a tiny bit of bitter smokiness can really make a decent dish special. From toasting delicate tips of an Italian meringue to blackening sweetcorn and charring winter leaves, there are endless uses. Some recipes call for a hot grill, but the control of vicious heat that you get from a blowtorch is far superior. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0jGYio7QkA/WAXVnx4zYOI/AAAAAAAACC0/TUFhijDLHp0rM_iDQ0FH_XiHrNz-EHVuwCEw/s1600/IMG_2115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0jGYio7QkA/WAXVnx4zYOI/AAAAAAAACC0/TUFhijDLHp0rM_iDQ0FH_XiHrNz-EHVuwCEw/s400/IMG_2115.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">It is undoubtedly still a faff though. Especially in this case, where my recipe calls for you to melt 300g of butter purely for the poaching of a few langoustine tails. Then to drag them out and blowtorch them seems like a lot of work. But I totally guarantee that it is worth it. Wild local langoustines are bloody expensive, and as such should be treated with delicate respect to maximise their beautiful sweet flavour. Although I have previously grilled and traditionally poached langoustines with enjoyable results, the gentle poaching in butter yields the ultimate soft texture. With the speedy exposure to a high flame afterwards, the tails take on a wonderful subtle caramelisation, without further internal cooking. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To accompany the langoustines I only required a few subtle sidekicks. As is often the way, ingredients that share the same seasons also sit happily on the same plate. Autumn is all about wild mushrooms for me, and I was lucky enough to find girolles, trompettes and fresh porcini mushrooms in my brilliant local fruit and veg shop in Stoke Newington. They also had a pile of beautiful Italian violet artichokes, and I couldn’t resist popping a couple into my basket. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Although a lot of butter is used to cook the langoustines, save the leftovers for frying potatoes, or to melt through pasta with plenty of sage and garlic… <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the langoustines: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 large live langoustines, killed humanely and tails shelled. Heads and claws reserved. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g salted butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the artichokes: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 small violet artichokes, peeled, trimmed and halved </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The heads and claws from the langoustines </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 smoked garlic clove, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 shallot, quartered </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the wild mushrooms: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of small girolle mushrooms, trimmed and cleaned </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of trompette mushrooms, cleaned </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 or 2 fresh porcini mushrooms, cleaned <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the smoked garlic mayonnaise: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of smoked garlic </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 egg yolks </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1/2 tsp Dijon mustard </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, juice and zest </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">250ml light olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, juice only <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Bring a large saucepan or high-sided frying pan to a medium heat. Pour in a generous glug of olive oil and add the claws and heads from the langoustines. Fry for 3-4 minutes, until lightly caramelised on all sides. Add the trimmed artichokes, shallot, garlic and bay leaf and continue to cook for a further couple of minutes. Pour in the wine and bring to the boil, then cover the pan and reduce the heat. Gently simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender. Add the knob of butter and adjust the seasoning if needed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g5lCRBownc8/WAXVabwzZgI/AAAAAAAACCw/XF_pSJNe60M_aBlnGwdRNI5x8sfLFHozQCEw/s1600/IMG_2094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g5lCRBownc8/WAXVabwzZgI/AAAAAAAACCw/XF_pSJNe60M_aBlnGwdRNI5x8sfLFHozQCEw/s400/IMG_2094.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To make the mayonnaise, grate the smoked garlic into a small food processor and add the mustard, lemon zest and juice, egg yolks and a good pinch of seasoning. Blend well to combine. With the engine still running, slowly pour in the oil, until fully emulsified into a mayonnaise. Thin down with a little water if necessary, and taste and add more seasoning. Spoon into a plastic bottle. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Heat a pan to a high heat and add a good glug of oil. When hot, sauté the girolle and trompette mushrooms for a couple of minutes, until tender and caramelised. Keep warm. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Halve the fresh raw porcini mushrooms and slice thinly. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ywi4LEg_Ktk/WAXVSugaQhI/AAAAAAAACCs/AvI_9BTWnGc3RaiSIN1zASlZa8LY-cwywCEw/s1600/IMG_2090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ywi4LEg_Ktk/WAXVSugaQhI/AAAAAAAACCs/AvI_9BTWnGc3RaiSIN1zASlZa8LY-cwywCEw/s400/IMG_2090.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Melt the butter for the langoustines in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and carefully drop in the langoustine tails. Poach gently for 3 minutes, then transfer onto a metal tray. Use a blowtorch to quickly caramelise the outsides. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, dot the mayonnaise onto each plate and arrange the langoustines and artichokes around. Top with the cooked wild mushrooms and raw porcini slices, and finish with a little of the buttery artichoke cooking liquid. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-30294991460949450402016-10-11T14:46:00.000-07:002016-10-11T14:46:08.752-07:00Chicken livers with baby leeks, sweetcorn, crispy skin and nasturtium<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Chicken livers used to really weird me out. As a child, I would pull a squeamish face if I accidentally peeled open the wrong tub in the back of the fridge, revealing grey and pungent pate. Yuk! This liver phobia stretched out for a large chunk of my young adult life. Even when working in a kitchen just after finishing university, making huge vats of delicately set chicken liver parfait was my most hated job. There’s nothing worse than the sight of a mountain of uncleaned livers whilst nursing a dangerous hangover. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxCgIaei12s/V_1dEjLGhhI/AAAAAAAACCY/35l9HLCR8C0UUZyy-iUY8DR5VtKK3wk7gCEw/s1600/IMG_2087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxCgIaei12s/V_1dEjLGhhI/AAAAAAAACCY/35l9HLCR8C0UUZyy-iUY8DR5VtKK3wk7gCEw/s400/IMG_2087.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Then something changed. One evening out at a restaurant, a plate emerged as part of a set menu. To avoid any social awkwardness I got stuck in, and suddenly became aware than I quite liked the smooth, rich and earthy morsels that had for so long been my nemesis. I guess there’s no real explanation for this shift in taste, other than just growing up and liking different foods. Around that time I also re-embraced mushrooms, discovered that bitter greens weren’t best shoved to one side of the plate, and that a good pinch of salt makes a world of difference to pretty much everything. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">With anything as strong and distinctive in flavour as chicken livers, the key is creating a balance with the other ingredients on the plate. Sweetcorn season is in full swing right now, and creates a wonderful sweet contrast. Add a few chicken wings to create a binding sauce and some irresistible crispy skin, and some peppery nasturtiums picked from my front garden, and everything is tied together. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the chicken livers: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g chicken livers, halved and trimmed of any sinew </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 good knob of butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 sprig of thyme <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the baby leeks: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 baby leeks <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sweetcorn puree: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sweetcorn, kernels cut free from the cobs </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 shallots, finely sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, finely chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 knobs of butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp wholegrain mustard <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the charred sweetcorn: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 sweetcorn, kernels cut free from the cob <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the chicken sauce: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 chicken wings, skin removed and retained </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 shallots, quartered </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 carrot, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, finely sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500ml good chicken stock <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the crispy chicken skin: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The skin from the chicken wings <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Nasturtium leaves </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, juice only <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Start by making the chicken sauce. Heat a large saucepan to high temperature, and add a good glug of olive oil. Season the wings and brown well on all sides in the hot pan, then transfer to a side plate. Slide the shallots into the pan and fry for a minute or two on each side, until caramelised. Add the carrot, garlic and thyme and continue to cook for a further minute, stirring frequently. Return the chicken wings to the pan and pour in the wine. Allow the liquid to boil and reduce by half. Pour in the stock, then return to the boil before reducing again, until only a small amount of thickened sauce remains. Strain the sauce through a sieve into a small saucepan and set aside to reheat later. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Sprinkle in a generous amount of salt. When the water is hot, blanch the baby leeks for 2 minutes, then drain and set aside until later. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a saucepan to a medium heat and add half the butter for the sweetcorn puree. When melted, add the shallots, garlic and thyme leaves, and cook gently for 3-4 minutes, until softened. Tip in the sweetcorn kernels and season well. Stir everything together, then cover the saucepan and cook for a further 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Spoon the contents of the pan into a food processor and add the mustard and remaining butter. Blend really well, until a smooth puree is formed. Loosen with a little water if necessary. Taste and season if needed. Pass the puree through a sieve into a bowl, then spoon into a plastic bottle. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat the oven to 190⁰C. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hGE2e7ul-1Q/V_1cxgcxuOI/AAAAAAAACCU/DmG8rrmk0U0FrzSTgikmts3QYDTeZ1mSgCEw/s1600/IMG_2077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hGE2e7ul-1Q/V_1cxgcxuOI/AAAAAAAACCU/DmG8rrmk0U0FrzSTgikmts3QYDTeZ1mSgCEw/s400/IMG_2077.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and rub with a little oil. Stretch the chicken skin onto the tray and season with salt and pepper. Cover with another oiled sheet of greaseproof and top with a second baking sheet. Slide into the oven and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until the skin is golden and crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Cut the kernels from the remaining sweetcorn cob, trying to keep the kernels together in clusters if possible. Using a blowtorch, quickly char the outsides. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Put the butter for the chicken livers into a non-stick frying pan along with a splash of olive oil. Bring to a high heat. When the pan is hot, season the chicken livers and add to the pan, along with the thyme and the garlic clove. Cook the livers for 1-2 minutes on each side, until still bouncy and pink in the middle. Transfer to a warm plate to rest quickly. Add the blanched leeks to the now empty liver pan and heat through for a minute. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While the livers and leeks are cooking, reheat the sauce. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Dress the nasturtium leaves in a little lemon juice and olive oil. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To plate up, squeeze a decent blob of the sweetcorn puree onto each plate. Arrange the leeks to one side along with the livers and charred sweetcorn. Top with the chicken skin and nasturtium leaves, then finish with a small amount of the chicken sauce. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-86404826987177716662016-10-03T06:22:00.000-07:002016-10-03T06:22:18.779-07:00Grouse ragu with pappardelle, girolles and thyme<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Ragu is without doubt one of my favourite things to eat. A saucepan of meat that has been patiently cooked until falling apart and tender, swimming in thick, rich reduced sauce offers a level of comfort and satisfaction that is hard to find in any other food. Add to that soft, buttery strands of pasta or melting wet polenta for and you’ve got a winner on your hands. Just don’t expect to be very active for some time afterwards! </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I’ve made ragu with a range of different meats over the years; beef shin and bone marrow is the classic, and lamb, anchovy and mint is a firm favourite in our household. I’ve even lightened it up in the summer by combining rabbit and peas. Once you’ve mastered one, the principle is very similar with others, and it’s great to experiment with different produce across the seasons. Now that game is well and truly back on the menu, I really wanted to have a go with grouse. This almost livery-flavoured meat is not to everybody’s taste, but I love the metallic intensity. Some would say that using such prime birds for a slow-cooked ragu is a waste, but I was really happy with the results. In my mind cooking the grouse in this way is a match for anything served pink and fast, as the flavours are allowed time to properly marry together. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Autumn also sees the start of the mushroom season proper. For this recipe I’ve stuck with reliable favourites girolles, but I really can’t wait to cook with wonderful fresh porcini, and perhaps if I’m lucky, a little truffle. All bound together with some scrambled duck eggs, or carefully folded into a risotto. Now there’s something that will have to be cooked in the next few weeks… <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the ragu: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 grouse, livers and hearts removed and retained </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 rashers of smoked, streaky bacon, sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 onion, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 garlic cloves, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 carrot, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A good few sprigs of fresh thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of red wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 litre of chicken stock </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, juice only <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pappardelle: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g Italian ‘00’ grade flour </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 medium eggs </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp olive oil </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Salt <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the mushrooms: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Two handfuls of girolle mushrooms, trimmed and brushed clean </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Parmesan cheese </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves picked <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Preheat the oven to 160⁰C. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Pour a generous glug of olive oil into a large, heavy saucepan and bring to a high heat. Season the grouse all over with salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, brown the birds all over for a couple of minutes on each side. Transfer the grouse to a side plate and add the bacon to the empty pan. Fry for a couple of minutes until slightly caramelised, then add the onion, carrot, garlic, thyme and bay leaf. Continue to cook for a further 3-4 minutes. Pour in the red wine, bring to the boil and allow to reduce by half. Return the grouse to the pan and cover with the chicken stock. Bring back to the boil, then tuck a sheet of greaseproof paper over the top, and cover the pan with a lid. Carefully slide the pan into the oven cook for 45 minutes, or until the flesh on the grouse is very tender. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When the grouse are cooked, remove them from the pan and allow to cool slightly. Using your hands, strip all of the meat from the crowns and legs, making sure to avoid all bones and shot. Shred finely. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a large frying pan and discard all of the solids. Set the pan onto a high heat and reduce the liquid by two-thirds, until slightly thickened and intensified in flavour. Stir the grouse meat back into the sauce. Set aside until needed later. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While the grouse is cooking, make the pasta. Pour the flour into a mixing bowl and use a wooden spoon to make a well in the middle. Crack in the eggs, pour in the olive oil and add a generous pinch of salt. Mix the liquid into the flour until a dough is formed, then use your hands to knead for 8-10 minutes, until springy and smooth in texture. Wrap with cling film and put in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When the pasta dough has rested, use a pasta machine or rolling pin to roll into thin sheets. Cut the pasta into thick pappardelle with a sharp knife. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large frying pan to a high heat and add the butter for the mushrooms. Scatter in the mushrooms, along with a good pinch of seasoning. Fry for 3-4 minutes, tossing frequently, until golden brown on all sides. Set aside. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill up a large saucepan with water and add plenty of salt. Bring to the boil. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Gently reheat the grouse ragu in the frying pan. Very finely chop the grouse livers and hearts and stir through the sauce. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When the water is hot, add the fresh pasta and boil for 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the pappardelle into the grouse pan, along with the girolle mushrooms, the remaining butter, thyme leaves, a good grating of parmesan cheese and the lemon juice. Toss everything together really well, and continue to cook together for a further minute or two. If the sauce needs loosening slightly, add a small amount of the pasta cooking water. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, pile the pappardelle onto plates and finish with more grated parmesan and a good crack of black pepper. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-25167332333372046092016-09-05T09:18:00.002-07:002016-09-05T09:23:19.224-07:00Cuttlefish, onions and lentils with samphire and clams<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">I’ve wanted to develop a recipe with cuttlefish for a long time now. At work, their peculiar and often very inky forms make an occasional appearance on the slab, but due to the sporadic nature of their availability, until now I haven’t quite managed to steal the right moment. And I thought that this summer would be very much the same, and instead I’ve been largely (and very happily) feasting on its close relations, the octopus and the squid. So when I opened a box one sunny morning a few weeks ago and was greeted by pile of particularly fine specimens, I just knew I had to take some home and fire up the hobs. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Cuttlefish is definitely something that we should be eating more of in this country. But unlike squid or octopus that are well and truly pinned onto the food map, cuttlefish gets all the bad press. That is, no press at all. Admittedly as a fishmonger they can be a bit of a nightmare due to their tendency to be messy and time consuming to prepare. But often it doesn’t even reach that point, with customers going down the safe old salmon, cod and tuna route. With the prices of these prime fish soaring, the cuttlefish still carries an unfashionable price tag, has bags of flavour and is a doddle to cook. All it needs is a decent national PR spin… </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">This dish represents exactly the type of food that I love to eat as we slide into Autumn with a chilly wind and grey cloud of rain. Slow, easy cooking that is all about the development of flavour over a little patient simmering. Food that can be sliced and eaten with a spoon. Now we’re in September, the shellfish will start to get slightly stronger, and soon we’ll see Shetland mussels back in their prime. Samphire is slowly heading the other way, and I’m finding any excuse to introduce a handful into my meals. Before long that vibrant green will be replaced by the burnished oranges and reds of squashes, apples and corn. I can’t wait. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 for a main, or 4 for a lunch or starter </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2-3 small cuttlefish, cleaned, with the tentacles and ink sacs reserved </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 onion, finely sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 cloves of garlic, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp fennel seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp dried chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp dried oregano </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500ml chicken stock </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sachets of cuttlefish ink </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">¾ of a mug of firm lentils, such as Puy </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, juice and zest </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small bunch of parsley, finely chopped </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">12-15 clams </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A handful of samphire </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The tentacles from the cuttlefish, cut into 3 or 4 pieces </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Slice the cleaned and skinned body and wings of the cuttlefish into chunky centimetre-thick strips. Pour a generous glug of olive oil into a large saucepan and bring up to a medium-high temperature. Fry the cuttlefish for 3-4 minutes, turning occasionally, until they start to turn golden. Season well. Turn the heat down slightly and add the onion, garlic, fennel seeds, dried chilli and oregano. Continue to fry everything together for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften slightly. Turn the head back up and pour in the wine. Allow the liquid to bubble away and reduce by half. Stir in the ink from the sachets, and carefully squeeze in the ink collected from the cuttlefish sacs (use an extra two sachets if you can’t collect them). Stir well, then top up with the chicken stock. Bring back to the boil, then turn down to a very gently simmer. Cover the saucepan with a lid and cook for 30 minutes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">After 30 minutes, pour the lentils into the saucepan and stir everything well. Continue to simmer for a further 30 minutes. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a frying pan to a high heat and pour in a good glug of olive oil. When the pan is very hot, add the cuttlefish tentacles and a good pinch of seasoning. Fry for 2-3 minutes, turning once, until golden and slightly crispy. Remove from the pan onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. Keep warm. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a saucepan to a high heat. Add the clams and a small splash of water. Seal the pan tightly with a lid, and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the clams all open. Turn the heat down and stir in the samphire. Cook for a further minute, then remove from the heat. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BQAsiin8kzI/V82ami6IxkI/AAAAAAAACBg/afUzp-ANgK0Fcvqv0IqQmLs-FnLo3nBcwCEw/s1600/IMG_2037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BQAsiin8kzI/V82ami6IxkI/AAAAAAAACBg/afUzp-ANgK0Fcvqv0IqQmLs-FnLo3nBcwCEw/s400/IMG_2037.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Finish the lentils by stirring in the parsley and squeezing in the lemon juice. Taste and add more seasoning if needed. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, spoon the lentils and cuttlefish into shallow bowls and top with the samphire, clams and crispy tentacles. Finish with a scattering of the lemon zest and a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-2132226463908192612016-08-30T12:10:00.000-07:002016-08-30T12:10:02.677-07:00Smoked octopus with charred peppers, preserved lemon and almond puree<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">The octopus had been in the freezer for a long time. A spring purchase, I had taken it home with big intentions; a light green broth perhaps, or fried in chilli to top a pea risotto. But somewhere along the line I was distracted, and the eight-legged beast had a little more time to acquaint itself with the lost myriad of ice-burnt fish fingers, three-quarter used packets of peas and random chunks of meat jostling for a way out of the cold. But as the summer came on, the octopus was the over-familiar leftover at the party and was more than starting to outstay its welcome. It’s shear bulk in such a tiny icebox meant that competition was tight, and with this heatwave, when a decision needed to be made between having room for an octopus or a box of Soleros, there was only one winner. </span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zwFeXdyV4tQ/V8XZYbSrAxI/AAAAAAAACBA/KwPryK59S28j1yIVPMD3mbzn3HFHZsX9ACEw/s1600/IMG_2018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zwFeXdyV4tQ/V8XZYbSrAxI/AAAAAAAACBA/KwPryK59S28j1yIVPMD3mbzn3HFHZsX9ACEw/s400/IMG_2018.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">But the octopus was not alone, and was joined by many of my culinary outcasts in this recipe. Enter the humble bell pepper, which has rarely (if every) appeared on this blog. Sometimes too sweet, sometimes just the wrong texture, I have no malicious feeling towards peppers. But they are just something that I never seem to crave. Until now that is. The combination of smoky, salty octopus and soft charred peppers seemed to get a big thumbs up in my head. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Of course, the smoking side of this recipe isn’t essential. It would be perfectly acceptable (delicious, even) to grill the tentacles after the initial braising process. But I do like a bit of DIY food experimentation, and I’m always surprised with the amount of flavour that comes out of a bit of hay and a deep roasting dish. As with anything that releases your inner pyromaniac, it’s always best performed in an open, outdoor space, with a fire-quenching aid to hand. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4 as a starter or light lunch <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 x 2kg octopus (double sucker variety), previously frozen and thawed out </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few good handfuls of hay, to smoke <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the charred peppers: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2-3 red and/or yellow peppers </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, finely sliced</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A pinch of dried chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 preserved lemons, centres scooped out and discarded </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of fresh oregano, leaves picked <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the almond puree: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g blanched almonds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, finely sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sprigs of rosemary, finely chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few more oregano leaves <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Pop the octopus into a large saucepan and add 250ml of water. Bring to the boil, then lower to a gentle simmer and cook for 1 hour, or until the tentacles are very tender. Allow to cool slightly, then remove from the liquid and slice off each tentacle. Discard the head. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrcKfAnBKuk/V8XZN097chI/AAAAAAAACA4/R8qoVU1LsnAf2rc1-cIdFbarqqm347yWgCEw/s1600/IMG_2012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrcKfAnBKuk/V8XZN097chI/AAAAAAAACA4/R8qoVU1LsnAf2rc1-cIdFbarqqm347yWgCEw/s400/IMG_2012.JPG" width="261" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Set a heavy griddle pan over a high heat. Rub the peppers with a little olive and sear for about 5 minutes on each side, until blackened and blistered. Remove to a deep bowl and cover with cling film. Allow to cool down, then slice into thin strips. Pour a good glug of oil into a small saucepan and add the garlic and the chilli flakes, along with a pinch of salt and pepper. Fry for a couple of minutes until softened, then remove from the heat. Finely chop the preserved lemon and add to the pan along with the oregano leaves, lemon juice and 2 tbsp olive oil. Stir well, then pour all over the sliced, cooked peppers. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large frying pan to a medium heat and add the almonds. Toast for a few minutes, until lightly browned, then pour over a good glug of olive oil. Stir in the garlic and chopped rosemary along with some seasoning, and fry gently for a further 8-10 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and blend well. Squeeze in the lemon juice and slowly add 3 tbsp of olive oil. With the motor still running, slowly pour in a little cold water to loosen the puree, until it is soft and smooth. Taste and season, and pass through a sieve if necessary. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iz2TyXReDTw/V8XZSvKE1pI/AAAAAAAACA8/KWVToK32MaUx-kN73NA0mgllYgstVpvZACEw/s1600/IMG_2011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iz2TyXReDTw/V8XZSvKE1pI/AAAAAAAACA8/KWVToK32MaUx-kN73NA0mgllYgstVpvZACEw/s400/IMG_2011.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To smoke the octopus, scatter the hay onto the bottom of a heavy baking tray and top with a wire rack. Arrange the tentacles onto the rack, and use a large sheet of foil to seal. Carefully light the hay with a long match and allow to smoke for a couple of minutes. Place the smoked octopus onto a metal tray and use a blowtorch to crisp up the edges. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, spoon the puree onto each plate and top with the octopus, pepper slices and a good drizzle of the flavoured oil. Finish with a scattering of fresh oregano leaves. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-86087086553883910842016-08-23T15:19:00.000-07:002016-08-23T15:19:23.792-07:00Summer lamb stew with pancetta, artichokes and borlotti beans<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Ok, I know that it’s one of the hottest days of the year, but I want stew. Diana Henry recently announced on Twitter that she had mostly spent the last few months “cooking for autumn”, and I can totally get behind that. The weather this year has most definitely been playing silly buggers, conditions that my instincts always look to solve with a broth or a soup, some lentils or grains slowly blipping away for hours on a hob. A piece of meat, tender and falling apart, usually gets in on the act too. Settling and comforting food, and this time I don’t intend on waiting until the later months. I draw the line at bulbous, suety dumplings or piles of buttery polenta, but with a few light touches here and there, I believe that a summer stew of sorts is a wonderful and appropriate thing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Summer sees excellent lamb, and a whole host of brilliant sidekicks to bob around a saucepan with. Spikey artichokes and almost hippy-like, vibrant pink borlotti beans are in their prime, with zingy sorrel giving things a refreshing boost where needed. The cut of meat chosen is the neck fillet, possibly my all-time favourite. Versatile enough to cook pink and charred over a barbeque, or in this case low and slow, and containing all of that flavour so common in the working muscles. I’ll leave my more refined cookery for another time. This is all about chunks of meat soft enough to break with a spoon, melting slabs of fatty pancetta and a rich liquor the result of patient simmering. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">One large saucepan and a steaming bowl of happiness. More salads and summer fare next week. But for now I just want stew. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4-6 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">800g-1kg lamb neck fillet, chopped into rough large chunks </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">150g smoked pancetta, thickly sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large onion, sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of dry white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1-1.5ltr chicken stock </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 large handfuls of fresh borlotti beans </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-6 small artichokes, tough leaves, stems and chokes removed and hearts quartered </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bunch of sorrel, roughly torn </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Pour a good glug of olive oil into a large, deep saucepan and bring to a medium-high heat. Season the chunks of lamb with salt and pepper and brown in the hot pan on all sides, in 2 or 3 batches if necessary. Transfer the cooked meat to a side plate. Add the pancetta to the now empty pan and cook for a couple of minutes, until the fat starts to render and crisp. Add the onion, garlic, thyme and bay and continue until softened and slightly caramelised. Season well. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Pour in the wine and allow the liquid to reduce by half. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the crust from the bottom of the pan. Return the lamb and top up with enough stock to cover the meat. Bring everything back to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook for 2 hours, or until the lamb pulls apart easily. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Drop the prepared artichokes and beans to the saucepan and continue to cook for a further 30-45 minutes, until the vegetables have softened. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Tear up the sorrel and stir through the stew a couple of minutes before serving. Taste and check for seasoning. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Spoon the stew into bowls, finishing with a squeeze of lemon juice.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-64852196281958996632016-08-01T08:03:00.000-07:002016-08-01T08:03:26.561-07:00Tortelli of rocket and goat’s cheese with garlic, butter and lemon<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Every year, Katie and I throw RoLo Fest, an evening of feasting to celebrate the birthdays of my sister-in-law Lois and her fiancé Rob. I spend the day in the kitchen lovingly putting together a four-course meal, before the evening arrives and we all sit in the (hopefully sunny) garden outside. A bottle or two is popped open and we all tuck in and catch up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Putting the menu together is both immensely fun yet immensely challenging. As it’s a family meal, I want to be out at the table with everyone else instead of stuck in the kitchen, so practicality and planning is key. Yet I also always want to do my best to spoil everyone rotten with impressive and elaborate food. In the past I’ve served up beef wellington, guinea fowl ravioli and fast-grilled leg of lamb. But on this occasion the centrepiece was an enormous piece of rolled porchetta, tender and herby in the middle with blistered golden crackling around the edge. I was overjoyed with how it turned out, a future recipe for this blog for sure. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Before the pork was served up, I made this pasta dish as a little primi. Rocket often seems to be used as an afterthought, chucked randomly to one side of a dish to add a splash of colour. But I wanted it to be the focus here, and I balanced the deep, bitter flavour with rich and tangy goat’s cheese. The little tortelli were served swimming in a little pool of garlicky melted butter, which is so simple but always a total crowd pleaser. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Making filled pasta is dead simple with a little practice, and once the basics have been mastered, the world is oyster with all of the different fillings and shapes that you can make. They’re also perfect for any kind of dinner party scenario, as they can be made and stored hours in advance, ready to be whipped up in a few minutes in front of your guests. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the tortelli: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g ‘00’ grade pasta flour </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 medium eggs </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 large bunches of rocket, roots trimmed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">150g soft goat’s cheese </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">200g ricotta </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 tbsp pecorino romano, finely grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 egg, for brushing <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sauce: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, thinly sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 tbsp unsalted butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bunch of rocket </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few gratings of pecorino romano <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Start by making the pasta dough. Tip the flour into a large bowl and mix with a generous pinch of fine salt. Make a well in the centre and crack in the eggs, and also pour in a good glug of olive oil. Using a fork, whisk the eggs, incorporating the flour at the same time until a dough is formed. Knead the dough for 5-10 minutes, until elastic in texture and not sticky. Wrap well with cling film and put in the fridge for an hour to rest. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add a good pinch of salt and the rocket leaves for the pasta filling. Blanche for 1 minute, then strain through a sieve and allow to cool. Squeeze out the excess water from the leaves then transfer to a food processor. Add the ricotta, goat’s cheese, pecorino and season well. Blend until the rocket is finely chopped and the filling is well combined. Tip into a bowl. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use a pasta machine to roll the pasta dough to its thinnest setting, and lay the resulting long sheet onto a well-floured surface. Place tablespoonfuls of the filling mixture along the middle of the sheet, leaving gaps of about 8cm between each one. Break the remaining egg into a small bowl, and use a pastry brush to lightly coat the pasta around the filling. Carefully fold the long edges in over the filling, creating a seal with the other edge in the middle. Use your fingers to seal the pasta in between each bit of filling, making sure to disperse any air bubbles. Use a sharp knife to separate each square tortelli, and use your fingers to seal the pasta together one last time. Repeat until all of the tortelli have been made, rolling out more pasta if necessary.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a large saucepan up with water and bring to the boil. Add a very good pinch of salt. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Melt the butter in a large frying pan and gently cook the sliced garlic for a minute or two, until lightly golden. Add the remaining bunch of rocket and wilt down. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When the water is boiling, drop in the tortelli and cook for 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked pasta to the butter pan. Carefully toss the tortelli to coat with butter, then squeeze over the lemon juice. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, arrange 3-5 tortelli onto each plate, along with some of the wilted rocket leaves. Spoon over a good amount of the butter and garlic. Finish with some additional gratings of pecorino cheese. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-72883335712385242502016-07-27T11:29:00.001-07:002016-07-27T11:29:22.700-07:00Duck with gooseberries, peas and lettuce<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Around this time of year, gooseberries become the darling of social media. Shiny cherries, old, grumpy looking pumpkins and heritage tomatoes can briefly step aside from the iphone lense and form a queue behind these plump, veiny orbs. Restaurant menus also jump on this seasonal bandwagon, tempering their tang with creamy fools, or scattering raw slices with halibut crudo (which if I’m honest, makes my stomach turn a little). Yet gooseberries rarely turn up in home cooking, possibly losing ground to more user-friendly strawberries. I always associate gooseberries with when I was a child. Being relatively greedy and already knowledgeable of other types of sweet, messy summer berries, I stuffed my face without realising the cheek-raspingly sour consequences. I lived and learned the hard way. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Like anything bitter, sharp or sour, a little guidance from contrasting ingredients can conjure magical results. Sugars and fats seem to work best at this balancing act, and in this case a plump, laden duck proved the perfect sidekick. I’ve often struggled to cook duck in the past, with most methods that suggest frying and then roasting the breasts consistently producing overcooked, disappointingly grey results. So this time I stuck to the hobs and was much happier with the pink, juicy flesh. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">As with many savoury dishes, there is nothing quite like a deep, meaty sauce to tie everything together. These intense reductions need a bit of time and care to get right, but are definitely worth all the effort spent browning, simmering and straining. In the end, a shockingly small puddle of sauce is produced, but it is compressed flavour, and only little is needed with each serving. The same principles of sauce making can be reproduced with beef, lamb, chicken etc etc… <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">It’s hard to ignore the other green, vibrant summer produce at the moment, with beautiful lettuces and, of course, peas working their way into lots of meals. The end result is a warm salad of sorts, a combination of rich, gamey duck and refreshing, multi-textured accompaniments. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4 <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 duck, portioned into breasts, legs and wings. Carcass bones cut into pieces and reserved <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pan-fried breast: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The breasts from the duck, trimmed of sinew and excess fat </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the duck sauce: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The wings and bones from the duck, fat removed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 shallot, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 carrot, chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of thyme </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500ml chicken stock </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the gooseberry puree: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500g gooseberries, trimmed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 shallots, finely chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, finely chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp of caster sugar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 knob of butter <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the torched gooseberries: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of gooseberries, halved <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 handfuls of fresh peas, podded </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few large lettuce leaves, washed and torn into small pieces </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, juice only <br /><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat to oven to 160⁰C. Season the duck legs all over with salt and pepper. Place a metal rack above an oven dish and top with the legs, then slide into the oven and bake for 2 hours, or until the duck is tender in the middle with a crispy skin. When the legs are cooked, allow them to rest for 15 minutes, then strip from the bone in large chunks. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While the duck legs are cooking, make the gooseberry puree. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, thyme and a good pinch of seasoning, and sauté for a couple of minutes, until soft and slightly caramelised. Add the gooseberries and the sugar, and continue to fry for a further 5-8 minutes, or until the berries start to melt. Taste a little of the sauce, and add more sugar if needed. Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor and blend well. Add the butter and blend for a further few seconds, until fully emulsified. Pass the puree through a sieve into a bowl, cover and set aside. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the sauce, pour a good glug of olive oil into a saucepan and bring up to a medium-high heat. Season the duck wings and bones and brown well in the hot pan, cooking in batches if necessary. Add the shallot, carrot, garlic and thyme and continue to fry for a couple more minutes, until the vegetables are slightly caramelised. Pour in the white wine and allow to reduce by two-thirds. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up the crust from the bottom of the pan. Top up with the chicken stock and return to the boil. Reduce the liquid a second time, by around three-quarters, until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain the sauce through a sieve into a smaller saucepan, and stir in the butter. Keep warm. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Pod the peas and add to the water with a good pinch of seasoning. Blanche for 1 minute, then drain. Pour over lots of cold water to halt the cooking process. Shell the peas into a small bowl. Tear up the lettuce and add to the peas. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Season the duck breasts all over and place them skin-side down into a cold, dry frying pan. Turn on the heat to medium-high and fry for 6 minutes, until the skin is crispy and has released its excess fat. Turn the breasts over and continue to cook for a further 4 minutes. Transfer the cooked duck to a side plate and allow to rest for 10 minutes, then slice in half lengthways. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Halve the spare gooseberries and arrange cut-side up on a metal tray. Use a blow torch to char the berries, holding the flame over for about 10 seconds, or until they are slightly blackened. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Squeeze the lemon juice over the lettuce and peas, and sprinkle on a little seasoning. Use your hands to mix well. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, arrange half a duck breast and a few pieces of leg meat to each plate. Add a large dollop of the gooseberry puree to the side. Scatter the torched berries, peas and lettuce around the sides. Finish with a generous amount of the duck sauce.</span><br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-66200116718644691882016-07-18T04:31:00.001-07:002016-07-18T04:31:52.487-07:00Beetroot salad with lardo, broad beans, roasted garlic, treviso and balsamic<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">My local greengrocer in North London has recently started stocking a range of the most beautiful baby vegetables. Shelves are stacked high with technicoloured little pointy carrots, miniature fennel bulbs with amazing long fronds and perfect, blemish-free turnips the size of a radish. And then there is the beetroot, all gold, red and pink. When I first saw them I was shopping for a different recipe, but I was instantly inspired and vowed to return soon. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Thankfully those sweet little beets were still there upon my next visit a few days later, and I grabbed a few bunches, along with a rather elegant treviso radicchio, a bulb of fresh garlic and a few broad beans to form the foundations of this little salad. Next stop, a proper old-school Italian deli close-by for some thin slices of silky lardo and a wedge of amazing strong pecorino (I’m a little obsessed with this at the moment). I skipped home a happy and hungry man, and it wasn’t long before everything was assembled on the plate and ready to eat. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I’m so pleased that I managed to grow up and shake off my childhood fear of beetroot. I think it was something to do with the violently staining red colour, or the strong association with vinegary pickle (a definite no-no for a younger me). Now I adore it, although I’m pretty sure that I’ve managed to marry a girl who loves it even more. Apparently when she was younger, Katie’s grandmother nicknamed her the ‘Beetroot Queen’, for her ability to consume so much. I’ve certainly never witnessed anyone get through a (large) jar of pickled beetroot with such gusto. So naturally, I expect that this salad will become a staple in our house. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the beetroot and garlic: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 bunches of baby beetroot, washed and trimmed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bulb of fresh garlic </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of thyme <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the balsamic dressing: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, juice only </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp Dijon mustard </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp balsamic vinegar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the beans and leaves: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 handfuls broad beans </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few big treviso leaves </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A handful of fresh basil leaves <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 tbsp pine nuts </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few shavings of strong pecorino </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">10 slices of lardo <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat the oven to 200⁰C. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Toss the beets, whole garlic bulb and thyme into an oven dish and coat with a glug of olive oil and a good pinch of seasoning. Slide into the oven and roast for 25 minutes, turning occasionally. Once cooked, allow to cool before carefully peeling away the skins. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Blanche the broad beans for 30 seconds. Fill a large bowl up with very cold (ideally iced) water. Transfer the cooked broad beans into the cold water to cool quickly. Once cooled, drain away the water and squeeze the vibrant broad beans out of their shells. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a dry frying pan to a high heat and scatter in the pine nuts. Toast for 2-3 minutes, until golden brown. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Make the dressing by combining the garlic, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar and a good pinch of seasoning in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, until fully emulsified. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Roughly tear the treviso leaves and add to a mixing bowl with the broad beans and basil. Dress will a little of the balsamic oil. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Plate up by arranging slices of lardo onto each plate, layering the beetroot, treviso, garlic cloves, broad beans and basil on top. Finish with a sprinkle of pine nuts, a generous amount of pecorino and an extra drizzle of the dressing. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-81538942295652593982016-07-11T09:34:00.001-07:002016-07-11T09:34:50.240-07:00Dover sole with summer girolles, sage and butter<span style="font-size: small;">As it was my mum’s birthday, I really wanted to spoil her with this lunch. So after the squid was devoured, I chucked the grill on and set about on a speedy main course. There were only the three of us eating, so the evening before I had excitedly rushed home with a trio of lovely Cornish Dover sole. Having only cooked and eaten these prized fish on less than a handful of occasions, I was determined to cook them carefully and treat them simply. A bag of mushrooms, a slab of butter and few bits picked from the allotment were all that was needed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">My mistake was in bringing the fish down to Brighton unprepared. I thought that my parents would want to be hands on and take interest in learning how to skin the fish. They were, although I wasn’t quite ready for the total mess that it would cause. At work, any mess is barely noticeable as it gets quickly slooshed away with a bucket of water. There was no such solution this time as scales sprayed across the kitchen, attaching themselves to the floorboards, fridge, clothing and hair. I felt so bad! </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />But once the fish was prepared and that total lead balloon had worn off a little, the rest of the dish came together in a flash. Simply grilled fish is always a pleasure to eat, especially when it emerges golden brown and sizzling from the oven and is swiftly doused in hot melted butter. Mushrooms and sage might seem a strange combination, but they provided a lovely contrast to the rich and meaty flesh. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">We were all stuffed to bursting after two plates of food, but of course there was cake. And cream. And clotted cream. And ice cream. Oh heavens! Dad had followed a particularly lovely Nigel Slater recipe for lemon cake, all sticky and dense, and with tangy candied sliced burnished on top. After half an hour of eating grace to try and find some extra stomach space, it was happily forked up to complete a memorable afternoon celebration. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Serves 4 </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Ingredients: </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />4 Dover sole, each about 400g in weight, skinned and trimmed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 large handfuls of girolle mushrooms, brushed clean </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few sprigs of sage, leaves picked </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 tbsp of butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Heat the grill to high. Line a large oven tray with greaseproof paper and rub with 1 tsp of olive oil and a good pinch of seasoning. Place the Dover sole on top and rub with a little more oil and seasoning. Slide under the hot grill for 8 minutes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Slice or tear the mushrooms into bite-size pieces if necessary. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Bring a large frying pan to a medium heat. Add the butter and melt, then toss in the mushrooms, crushed garlic clove and a pinch of seasoning. Fry for 4-5 minutes, tossing frequently, until caramelised on all sides. Add the sage leaves about halfway through, and allow them to slightly crisp in the hot butter. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Carefully transfer the cooked fish to each plate. Squeeze half of the lemon juice into the butter and mushrooms and stir to combine, then spoon generously over the fish. Serve with the remaining lemon on the side. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-3511932108734863102016-07-11T08:17:00.000-07:002016-07-11T08:17:55.480-07:00Squid with baby courgettes, samphire and marjoram <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">I spent the weekend just passed on a whistle-stop visit to Brighton to celebrate my mum’s 68th birthday. And as is now tradition, I arrived clutching a bag of provisions to make lunch on the Sunday. Wherever they have lived, the kitchen has always been the central point of the house, and it was a total pleasure preparing food and catching up as they sat around the table with a glass of wine. As usual, I wanted to keep things simple and quick, just a few seasonal and tested ingredients together on a plate. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">In the morning mum and I had driven to their lovely allotment on the hills overlooking the city, shrouded in the morning mist and spitting rain. There we collected beautiful courgette flowers, herbs, salad leaves and bulbs of garlic. They are always so humble about it, but I know how hard they work planning, digging, planting and watering, and I’m always blown away by the produce that flourishes in the neat beds and winds around geometric canes. It was exciting to collect food knowing that it would be on the plate within a few small hours. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">First course out of my bag was a paper-wrapped package bulging with squid. Dad gasped. The man loves his squid, and some of my fondest childhood memories involve visits to fishmongers with him. Without fail, dad would always be drawn to squid, and we would rush home to fry them in a thin, crispy batter. On this occasion they were seared quick and fast, until charring at the edges, before being drenched in lemon juice. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I can’t get enough of samphire at the moment, so a few handfuls were also thrown into the mix. Combined with the incredibly tender young courgettes and a tangy dressing, they sat perfectly alongside the squid. This whole dish took about 15 minutes to casually put together, perfect for maximising time sat down eating together. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 4 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 medium squid, cleaned </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4 small handfuls of samphire </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-6 baby courgettes, with flowers if possible </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 sprigs of marjoram </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 good pinch of dried chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Extra virgin olive oil <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Fill a saucepan with water, and bring to the boil. Fill a large bowl with cold water and add a good handful of ice cubes. When the water in the pan is hot, tip in the samphire and blanche for 20 seconds. Drain and transfer straight into the iced water to cool quickly. When cold, drain and shake dry, then add to a large bowl. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Tear up the courgette flowers (discarding the stamen). Slice the courgettes into long, thin batons. Add both to the samphire, along with the chilli flakes, the lemon zest and half of the juice, the marjoram leaves and the finely grated garlic. Pour in 2-3 tbsp of olive oil and a good pinch of seasoning and toss to combine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Using a sharp knife, open up the cleaned squid bodies to create a flat sheet. Carefully score one side in a crisscross, and repeat with the wings. Slice the tentacles into a few pieces. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large, heavy frying pan to a high heat and add 2 tbsp of olive oil. When smoking hot, add the squid and a pinch of seasoning. Cook the squid, in batches if necessary, for one minute on each side, or until golden brown and caramelised. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, layer the squid and the samphire and courgette salad onto each plate. Finish with an extra squeeze of lemon juice and a crack of black pepper. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-30225311877372224292016-07-05T01:33:00.000-07:002016-07-05T01:33:08.949-07:00Brill with baby fennel, heritage tomatoes and bottarga<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">It’s summer supposedly, but despite the thunder, rain and perpetual state of mugginess, people are still eager to dust off the barbecue. Only barbeques in Britain require additional equipment of multiple umbrellas, raincoats and windshields. Due to this every-reliable method of cooking, everyone is all mackerel, bream, prawns and tuna. Despite being in prime season and wonderful condition, suddenly the humble soles, flounders and other flatfish become seemingly invisible. So here’s a summer recipe that takes full advantage of these delicious fish that can be whipped up in no time. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3w7LeIKq0Es/V3twTwBx0jI/AAAAAAAAB-E/c3EZBy3nESYaoR1Pwk61521fbF43D5grgCKgB/s1600/IMG_1888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3w7LeIKq0Es/V3twTwBx0jI/AAAAAAAAB-E/c3EZBy3nESYaoR1Pwk61521fbF43D5grgCKgB/s400/IMG_1888.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Turbot, lemon sole, plaice or halibut would all work perfectly with this recipe, but in this instance I opted for brill. Poor brill. Brill is like a child named Butch who turned out to be a bit of a weed. Nobody seems to want to hang out with brill. Its dull brown appearance and large size don’t do it any favours. It gets enough attention mind; “OH that’s a brill” they say, pointing, before finishing with “I’ll have two slices of salmon please”. Brill needs a break. Because underneath that dull exterior is beautifully textured, pure white flesh that on its day gives the prized turbot a run for its money. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Last year I splashed out and bought a whopper. I poached chunky fillets in butter and they were to die for. I fried the roes with anchovies and chanterelles. I even cured a bit. This time I wanted to go back to basics and simply fry a tranche with a few tried and tested companions. Cooking flat fish on the bone results in extra succulence and flavour, and it’s really not that fiddly at all when it comes to eating. A few technicoloured, ripe tomatoes, some wonderful baby fennel and a pile of finely grated bottarga and you’re pretty much there. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the brill: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 tranches of brill, about 200g each </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the tomatoes: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-5 assorted ripe heritage tomatoes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 small clove of garlic, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A pinch of dried chillies <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 baby fennel and fronds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A generous grating of bottarga </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few fresh oregano leaves <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Slice the tomatoes into randomly-shaped pieces and slide into a bowl. Grate over the garlic and sprinkle over the chilli flakes to taste. Season generously and combine with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Leave to sit while the rest of the preparation is completed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tH_olOGKgvw/V3twIGg6S5I/AAAAAAAAB-A/XbNclS2dEs0NonAJen34nZGup1uCE3bjQCKgB/s1600/IMG_1875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tH_olOGKgvw/V3twIGg6S5I/AAAAAAAAB-A/XbNclS2dEs0NonAJen34nZGup1uCE3bjQCKgB/s400/IMG_1875.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Cut the fronds from the fennel and blanche in the hot water for about 30 seconds, then immediately drain and shock in cold water. Set aside. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Set the grill to medium-high. Place the baby fennel bulbs onto an oven tray and toss with a little olive oil and seasoning. Slide under the heat and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, until lightly caramelised and al dente. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Pour a glug of olive oil into a non-stick frying pan and bring to a medium-high heat. Season the tranches of brill all over. When the pan is hot, add the brill and fry for three minutes on each side. For the final 2 minutes, add the knob of butter to the pan and baste the fish continuously. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S525YYhkNrI/V3twF7To5bI/AAAAAAAAB-I/k2Nd8Yfpo4QxYsSRQ__-ifcpYtt0pXULACKgB/s1600/IMG_1872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S525YYhkNrI/V3twF7To5bI/AAAAAAAAB-I/k2Nd8Yfpo4QxYsSRQ__-ifcpYtt0pXULACKgB/s400/IMG_1872.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Remove the fish from the pan and set aside briefly. Pour in the tomatoes and add the fennel and fronds. Warm through for about a minute, tossing in the oil and butter. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To serve, add a piece of brill to each plate and surround with the tomatoes, fennel and fronds. Spoon over some of the buttery pan sauce, and grate a generous amount of bottarga on top. Finish with a few fresh oregano leaves. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-87963045502015317952016-07-04T14:26:00.000-07:002016-07-04T14:26:10.015-07:00Gnudi with peas, shoots, mint and butter<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Yet again there has somehow been a gap of a few weeks since my last recipe. Recently I’ve been running around like a headless chicken working on various projects, and I just haven’t been able to sneak over to the computer and jot down a few words. Thankfully, I’ve got a window of free time ahead, so my posting can hopefully get back to the usual frequency. There are some cracking recipes in the pipeline; brill, summer stews, baby beetroot and more. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The best thing about this recipe is that it marks my annual love-in with peas. Any regular readers will know that I’m borderline obsessed with the little sweet green orbs of joy. Memory and food is an important connection, and peas take me right back to childhood dinners. Then they would be served to provide some nutrition alongside a breaded chicken escalope, or they would be jammed, hiding inside penne or pasta shells. As a supposedly responsible adult, I have tried on occasion to grow them. The idea of a plentiful and replenishing supply of peas at my fingertips is too good to resist. Alas, unfortunately I am constantly reminded that my gardening prowess leaves a lot to be desired. And any few miracle peas that made it were engulfed in seconds, without hope of even nearly making it into the kitchen. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">So peas are wonderful, but very much in a safe kind of way. You know what you’re getting with peas. They’re Mr Reliable; sweet, with that satisfying pop. Yet at a recent dinner the excellent Pidgin, local to me in Hackney, my eyes were opened when whole pods of peas were served to me grilled. They proved a total revelation and made perfect sense, the charred exterior adding a wonderful smokiness. I just had to give that a go. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">This dish is a celebration of the humble pea. But the soft and rich gnudi are certainly not the bridesmaids. These soft, hot, balls of melted cheese are total crowd pleasers, and something that I don’t nearly make often enough. The long preparation time is a bit of a commitment, but as is so often the way, when it’s actually time to cook they are ready in a flash. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the gnudi: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">250g ricotta </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">25g parmesan, finely grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500g semolina, for rolling <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pea puree: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">250g frozen peas </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A small bunch of mint, leaves picked </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the grilled peas: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">10 fresh peas in their pods <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the fresh peas and shoots: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 handfuls of fresh peas </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 handful of pea shoots <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few mint leaves </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A few gratings of parmesan <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Start by making the gnudi. Tip the ricotta into a bowl and combine with the grated parmesan and a good pinch of seasoning. Carefully form the mixture into small balls. Line a large plate or tray with the semolina and roll each gnudi in it until coated all over. Space the gnudi out on the tray in one layer, and scatter a little more of the semolina over the top. Cover the tray with cling film and refrigerate for 24 hours. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and salt the water well. Fill a large bowl with very cold water (iced ideally) and have it standing to the side ready. Blanche the shoots for 20 seconds before transferring to the cold water with a spotted spoon. Repeat with the two handfuls of fresh peas, blanching for 1 minute. Once cool, drain the water away and shell the peas, and set aside in a bowl with the shoots for finishing later. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Tip the frozen peas into the now empty pan of boiling water and cool for 2-3 minutes, until tender. Drain and shake dry, then pour into a food processor. Add the lemon juice, mint leaves and butter and blitz until a puree is formed. Pass through a sieve, then taste and adjust the seasoning and lemon content if necessary. Pour into a small saucepan and cover. Keep warm. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Set the grill to high. Rub the whole peas with a little oil and season well. Scatter onto an oven tray and slide under the grill for a couple of minutes on each side, until slightly charred. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Take the gnudi out of the fridge. The semolina will have formed a crust around the cheese. Gently brush off any excess grains. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large pan of water to the boil and salt the water well. Place a large frying pan over a medium-low heat and melt the butter. When the water is hot, drop in the gnudi and boil for a couple of minutes; they are ready as soon as they float to the surface. Transfer them to the butter pan with a slotted spoon and carefully roll around. Add the blanched peas and shoots and cook for a minute to warm through. <br /><br />To plate up, spoon a good dollop of the puree onto each plate. Top with the gnudi, peas, shoots and a spoonful of the hot butter from the pan. Arrange some of the grilled peas in the gaps. Finish with a generous grating of parmesan and a scattering of mint leaves.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-58426723195075222792016-05-26T11:58:00.002-07:002016-05-26T11:58:50.588-07:00Black bream with Jersey Royals, purple sprouting broccoli, samphire and mussels<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">This is a true late spring dish that these warm, sunny evenings have been screaming out for. After many months of waiting, I was excited to see the first of the newly picked samphire arrive at the shop, but I certainly wasn’t the only one. This marsh grass has a crazy effect on people, and soon I was scraping the bottom of the box, desperate to salvage just one last handful. Samphire, samphierre, sampher, salicorne, seaweed, that green stuff, the names are endless, and I hear new ones every summer. But call it what you will, it does magical things when cooked with fish. And lamb for that matter. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bHJhCRdrsXU/V0dGnCmG0MI/AAAAAAAAB9I/TarCbQhz_kIxMwvZBRnV3Q2nR1-ocJ0RACKgB/s1600/IMG_1692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bHJhCRdrsXU/V0dGnCmG0MI/AAAAAAAAB9I/TarCbQhz_kIxMwvZBRnV3Q2nR1-ocJ0RACKgB/s400/IMG_1692.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Following the seasons makes dreaming up new ideas a total doddle, and this recipe is a prime example. In the same few weeks that the samphire emerged, we also started receiving the first of the wild black bream that visit Cornwall and the south coast every spring. These deep, darkly-scaled fish are true beauties, with flesh firm with freshness flashing blue and silver in the light. Closely related to seabass, they cook in a similar way, and are best filleted and pan-fried until crisp, or roasted whole in a hot oven. Even if you do decide to go with fillets, make sure that you take the bones as well. It’s always nice to use the whole of an ingredient, and the carcass of the bream will provide a lovely stock. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Unlike the samphire and the black bream, the mussel season only has a few weeks remaining. As the weather and seas warm for the summer, their quality really does decline, and it’s best to hold on until September before you plan your next mariniere. But if you’re quick, you will still be able to sneak a bowl or two before this exodus. Although clams tend to get all of the glory with their pretty shells and classy spaghetti alle vongole, I adore the rich flavour of the humble, cheap mussel. In this dish they are cooked and then blitzed into a silky, buttery sauce, that really brings the fish and greens and potatoes together as one. But made in a larger quantity, the same method would make a fantastic soup. Just add a wedge of bread. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 black bream, approx. 1kg in weight. Scaled, filleted and pin-boned </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the fish stock: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The cleaned bones from the black bream </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 carrot, roughly chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 shallots, halved with the skins left on </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The trimmings from the fennel bulb </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, crushed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A handful of fresh parsley </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp fennel seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 bay leaf <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the mussel sauce: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">500g mussels, cleaned and de-bearded </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 fennel bulb, finely chopped </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 clove of garlic, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ tsp chilli flakes </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large glass of white wine </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A squeeze of lemon juice </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The reduced fish stock </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 large knob of butter <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the Jersey Royals: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6-8 small Jersey Royal potatoes, washed <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6 stems of purple sprouting broccoli </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A generous handful of samphire <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />To begin with make the stock. Place all of the ingredients and a good pinch of seasoning into a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the liquid through a sieve into a smaller saucepan, then set on a high heat and return to the boil. Reduce the liquid by three quarters. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Put the washed Jersey Royals into a small saucepan and cover with well-salted, cold water. Bring to the boil, then simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and rinse well with cold water to halt the cooking process. Using a butter knife, scrape off the skins and discard. Set the potatoes aside to reheat later. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Fill a saucepan with water and stir in a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then blanch the trimmed broccoli stems for 2-3 minutes, or until just tender. While the broccoli is cooking, fill a large bowl up with very cold water. Transfer the al-dente broccoli to the cold water to shock. Repeat this process with the samphire, boiling for 30 seconds to soften slightly. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bring a large saucepan to a medium-low heat. Add a good glug of olive oil and add the fennel, garlic and chilli flakes, and sweat until soft. Turn the heat of the pan up and tip in the mussels and the wine. Cover with a lid and allow the mussels to steamfor 3-4 minutes, or until all of the mussels have opened. Allow to cool slightly, the remove the meat from the shells with a spoon, discarding the shells. Reserve 6-8 mussels aside to decorate the dish when plating. Transfer the remaining mussels and vegetables to a food processor and blend well. While the motor is still running, pour in enough of the stock reduction to loosen into a smooth sauce. Squeeze in the lemon juice and season to taste. Strain the sauce through a sieve into a small saucepan. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Set a non-stick frying pan to a high heat. Pour in a generous amount of olive oil and season the bream fillets all over with salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, place them skin-side down into the pan and fry for 3 minutes. As the fish is cooking, carefully use a spoon to baste the flesh side of the fish with the hot oil. Add a knob of butter to the pan fry for a further minute, continuing the basting process. Remove the fish from the pan to a warm side plate. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Turn the heat of the pan down slightly and add the potatoes, samphire, broccoli and reserved mussels. Cook for 1-2 minutes to warm through, adding seasoning to taste. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Reheat the mussel sauce, then finish by beating in the knob of butter until fully emulsified. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Lay half of the sprouting broccoli onto each plate and top with a piece of fish. Arrange the potatoes, samphire and mussels around the sides. Finish with a generous amount of the mussel sauce. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-34533004919741731802016-05-23T14:19:00.000-07:002016-05-23T14:19:29.143-07:00Almond and brown butter tart with stewed rhubarb and crème fraiche<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">If someone ever asked me what the thing that I find the hardest when cooking is, my answer would without doubt be pastry. Specifically, shortcrust pastry. It always looks so effortless on the telly, when the beaming cook rolls out perfect, impossibly thin sheets, before casually lining their tin with the utmost precision. “Who needs to buy shortcrust pastry when it’s such a doddle?” they ask. They’ve clearly never experienced the crushing devastation of too-short pastry crumbling away at the merest suggestion of a rolling pin. The bottomless crevasses that appear from nowhere after blind baking. Or the brittle walls collapsing at the crucial moment of leaving the tin, spilling the filling to merge with the river of frustrated tears. Thankfully, practice (and a solid, reliable recipe) makes perfect, and after making pastry a few times recently, I decided it was time to cook something for this blog. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">However, I deserve absolutely no credit for the pastry itself. The recipe that I used is broadly based on Felicty Cloake’s version that she used to make her Perfect Custard Tart with. I always find her column brilliant when approaching new recipes or needing inspiration, and so far the pastry has worked every time. It’s even got to the point where I no longer dread getting the rolling pin out. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Adding brown butter to puddings and desserts seems to be very popular in London restaurants at the moment. But unlike a lot of trends and fads, it well and truly lives up to the hype. By cooking the butter until it is almost maple syrup in colour, a deep, rich and mellow flavour is released, which works as wonderfully with sweet things as it does with a piece of turbot. I will definitely be experimenting further with this, as I love the sound of other desserts to which it has been added; custard tarts, ice cream, icing etc. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Although making pastry was largely stress-free this time, there still managed to be a kitchen cock-up whilst testing this recipe. I wanted to make a crème fraiche ice cream to accompany the tart, but midway through churning, with a foul smell, the machine abruptly decided to overheat and refused to play anymore. So good old crème fraiche, straight out of the tub, came to the rescue. And after all of that faff, I’m not sure that the frozen version was even missed. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 8-10 <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pastry: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">225g plain flour </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">115g cold butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">85g caster sugar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 egg yolks, plus 1 whole egg for brushing <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the filling: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g unsalted butter </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g caster sugar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">300g ground almonds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 medium eggs </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest only <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the rhubarb: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">4-5 sticks of rhubarb, trimmed and sliced into bite-sized pieces </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 tbsp of caster sugar </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 vanilla pod <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Crème fraiche <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Start by making the pastry. Using your hands, rub the butter and flour together in a mixing bowl, until all of the butter has been incorporated and the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar, then the egg yolks. Work everything lightly until a dough is formed, then flatten slightly and wrap with cling film. Refrigerate for 1 hour 30 minutes to rest. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use greaseproof paper to line the base and sides of a deep 9” tin with a loose base. Roll out the rested pastry on a lightly floured surface, then transfer to the tin. Patch any cracks, and use a spare piece of pastry to carefully edge the pastry into the corners. Leave the pastry overhanging the top of the tin. Wrap loosely with cling film and chill in the freezer for a further hour. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat the oven to 180⁰C (160⁰C Fan). <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Prick the base of the tart with a fork, then cover with a sheet of greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans. Blind bake for 20 minutes, until golden brown around the sides. Remove the beans and paper, then return to the oven for a further 5 minutes. Crack the remaining egg into a bowl and beat with a fork. Brush the base and sides of the tart with some of the egg, then cook for a minute. Remove the shell from the oven and allow to cool slightly. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Lower the oven temperature to 150⁰C (130⁰C Fan). </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eb2TNmXppog/V0NyuWtCHBI/AAAAAAAAB8s/hAVy0II5R2Ade7N1VNzMuJcsrv2O0pb4gCKgB/s1600/IMG_1694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eb2TNmXppog/V0NyuWtCHBI/AAAAAAAAB8s/hAVy0II5R2Ade7N1VNzMuJcsrv2O0pb4gCKgB/s400/IMG_1694.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Measure out the sugar and the almonds and combine in a mixing bowl. Tip the butter for the filling into a saucepan and melt at a medium-high temperature. When the butter bubbles away and turns nut brown in colour, take it off the heat and pour into the almond mixture, stirring well with a wooden spoon. Beat in the eggs one at a time, until emulsified. Spoon the mixture into the pastry shell, it should leave a gap of about 1.5cm at the top. Gently slide the tart onto the middle shelf of the oven and bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the filling has just set. Allow to cool slightly before carefully removing from the tin and slicing. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While the tart is cooking, add the rhubarb to a large frying pan along with the halved vanilla pod, the sugar and a splash of water. Bring up to a medium-low temperature, then cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb has softened. Allow to cool. <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serve slices of the tart with some of the stewed rhubarb and juices. Finish with a generous dollop of crème fraiche. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7726722791264321867.post-61070511348694743722016-05-18T10:47:00.002-07:002016-05-18T10:47:44.186-07:00Roasted carrots with smoked cod’s roe, wild garlic and pangrattato<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;">Between December-February, cod are fully gearing up for spawning and are heavy with roe. As a result, during those months the markets flood with these giant, slightly alien-looking lobes. I have to admit that I’m not a massive fan, but for a certain fragment of our customer base, there ain’t no party like fresh cod’s roe party. They start asking over availability towards the end of every summer, getting progressively more excited as the weeks get closer. For the ninety five percent of other customers, these weird and wonderful objects provoke pointing and squirmy, scared faces. But those patient few, their eyes light up and they dance home with a heavy bag of fish eggs to boil up and eat on toast. Maybe next winter… </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MQF1BNY_FiI/Vzyqb31dLxI/AAAAAAAAB8c/065M5ffeEtw_S3R9VywLL_k1WbJ9SVlhgCLcB/s1600/IMG_1548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MQF1BNY_FiI/Vzyqb31dLxI/AAAAAAAAB8c/065M5ffeEtw_S3R9VywLL_k1WbJ9SVlhgCLcB/s400/IMG_1548.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Despite my clear scepticism of fresh cod’s roe, this changes completely upon the introduction of smoke. After some gentle curing, the roe is preserved and cooked over hot smoke. A total transformation occurs; the flavour becomes rich and intense, with a soft, smooth texture. Sliced and fried in butter it is magical, but whipped into a puree and used as a taramasalata-esque condiment is really where it’s at. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The sweetness of carrots make them the perfect companion for the strong, salty dip. Although the humble carrot is often used as a base ingredient in many recipes, here I wanted to showcase its flavour and versatility by preparing it a few separate ways. Of course if you’re strapped for time of simply want to shorten the cooking time, a few roasted or even raw carrots will still be delicious dunked into the roe. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">A little pangrattato and a few wild garlic leaves finish everything off. Pangrattato is one of the great cooking words, like spanakopita and, well, taramasalata. It also adds that wonderfully addictive crunch, which is very welcome to contrast the other soft elements of the dish. And as wild garlic is seemingly everywhere at the moment, it seems rude not to include it here. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Ingredients: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">8 small-medium carrots, peeled and trimmed <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the carrot puree: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 large carrots, thinly sliced </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp olive oil </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, juice only <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the smoked cod’s roe: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">150g smoked cod’s roe </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">2 thick slices of white bread, crusts removed </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, zest and juice </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 garlic clove, grated </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">3 tbsp water </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">100ml olive oil <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pickled carrots: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 carrot </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 lemon, juice only <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For the pangrattato: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 thick slice of white bread </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp fennel seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">1 tsp onion seeds </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">½ a lemon, zest only <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To finish: <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">6-8 wild garlic leaves <br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Start by whipping the smoked cod’s roe. Chop the smoked roe roughly, then tip into a food processor with the grated garlic, lemon zest and juice, seasoning and the torn up bread. Blitz until well combined. Pour in the water to loosen mixture up. With the motor still running, slowly pour in the oil, until the puree is thick and emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasoning and lemon, then spoon into a plastic squeezy bottle. Set aside. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To make the pickled carrots, use a vegetable peeler to slice the carrots into thin ribbons. Arrange in a small bowl, add a little salt, and squeeze over the lemon juice. Toss to coat. Set aside for at least 20 minutes to lightly pickle. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Toast the bread for the pangrattato really well, then transfer to a food processor and blitz to create coarse breadcrumbs. Pour 1 tbsp of olive oil into a frying pan and bring to a medium-high heat. Tip in the breadcrumbs along with the fennel seeds, onion seeds and lemon zest. Fry for a couple of minutes, tossing frequently, until the crumbs are golden brown. Pour into a bowl. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Preheat the oven to 200⁰C. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Thinly slice the carrots for the puree and transfer to a small saucepan. Cover with boiling water and season well with salt. Bring back to the boil and then simmer for 5-6 minutes, or until cooked all the way through. Drain the liquid and add the carrots to a food processor. Squeeze in the lemon juice and a little seasoning, and blend until smooth. With the engine still running, slowly pour in the olive oil, until it has been fully emulsified. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Arrange the remaining carrots on a roasting tray and season with salt and pepper. Toss with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, then slide into the oven for 20-30 minutes, or until lightly coloured on the outside and tender in the middle. <br /> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Serve by arranging 3-4 carrots onto each dish. Spoon on some of the puree and add a generous blob of the smoked roe puree. Top with some of the pickled carrots and pangrattato. Finish with a few wild garlic leaves and a drizzle of olive oil. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15994040886776517214noreply@blogger.com0